Wednesday, December 29, 2010
I'm in the process of making more of my leather accord, which is extremely complex and is present in a few perfumes including Rosa. This accord was created in May 2008 as part of a group blending project where several natural perfumers came together and created a leather. Mine is completely natural with the only non plant ingredients being Beeswax, Africa Stone, Seashells and Seaweed. No castoreum, no isolates, and no synthetics not now or in the future.
My journey started with extensive research first in my library of perfume books and then by sniffing all my ingredients. To my surprise quite a number of essential oils contain a leather note and my list was quite long.
When finally constructing the accord I used an ancient formula as the basis for my own. I wasn't striving to replicate the aroma of a cured hide but rather express the essence of the old leather perfumes like a Peau d'Espagne or Cuir de Russie.
The final formula contains twenty single essences, mostly essential oils but a few C02 extracts and absolutes as well. The original contained four other accords, three of which are also extremely complex, thus resulting in an incredibly complex and rich fragrance final leather accord. The latest formula now contains five accords. This fifth accord resulted rather spontaneously as I was out of an ingredient and decided to make an accord of it instead. The final number of actual essences in the formula is staggering.
I am completely infatuated with this leather accord and often wear it as a perfume. I'm working on a perfume where it will be highlighted as the star, in the meantime I'll leave you with this list of ingredients: