Friday, October 31, 2014

Samhain and La Dame Blanche


In August I shared with you how Beth Schreibman Gehring had contacted me about collaborating on an Outlander inspired fragrance. Well here we are at summers end, when the veils between the worlds are thin and mutable with the result of our synergistic result.


I began our project by listening to book one of the series titled Outlander, while driving down to the San Diego Comic Convention with Greg. Once back from the craziness of popular art culture mayhem I quickly made my way through the book and moved on to Dragonfly in Amber, then Voyager and now Drums of Autumn.

As a lover of a really good, well written yarn with fantastical/sci-fi pagan aspects weaved with some romance I have been in heaven. The other aspect, to my surprise, is that Diana Gabaldon is clearly a lover of scent. Each book is abundant with olfactive references of the country side, food, cities, potions and humans, etc.


Feeling blinded and a bit overwhelmed with where to go with the construction of the fragrance, besides the reference to the Guerlain classic L'Heure Bleue, I jotted down some notes and called Beth. She broke down the main scent themes of the series, from her perspective, as being:

  • Herbal (Folklore)
  • Horse
  • Whiskey
  • Tea
  • Ink
  • Blood
From her perspective, Q seemed to encapsulate Outlander really well, particularly Jamie Fraser. 


Initially I thought going in the direction of a classical chypre would work well, given that the original L'Heure Bleue had followed that structure with notes of: aniseed, bergamot, rose, carnation, tuberose, violet, neroli, vanilla, tonka bean, iris, benzoin and musk. Based on the main characters love of whiskey I decided to create the fragrance with the notes listed with elements of whiskey and wood.

Thus, I sorted through my plethora of essences pulling out three chords: Chypre base, Wood #1 and Veggie Musk. To compliment this trio I selected a beautiful, extremely rare vintage Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, oakwood, patchouli, labdanum, orris root, vetiver, an ancient and very indolic Ecuadorean palo santo, copal from Africa, ambrette seed, hay, beeswax, davana and elemi. Besides the trio of chords I also had a floral triangle of jasmine, rose and tuberose with a "New World" set of coffee, tobacco and bourbon vanilla bean. Bergamot was selected for the top note to create the "Chypre" contrast to the oakmoss, patchouli and labdanum. I added cognac for the whiskey element and clary sage to represent Claire.

For the horse component Beth created a tincture which you can read about directly from her. My contribution in terms of notes was the hay and labdanum mentioned above.

After combining all of these I let the marriage sit to see how all the players would interact. As I was constructing the fragrance it went through several phases from complete enchantment to horror. In the meantime I was on a hunt for a gemstone mentioned in one of the books as an "adamant" and black diamond. Jillian from the crystal shop in the atrium where my workspace is didn't have one and didn't think she could get a hold of a small piece for me. We chatted about other possibilities that might convey the same properties. Meanwhile, I contacted another gal who told me the black diamond was a code name for marcasite.

I ran all this by Beth, who formerly worked in the gemstone business. She informed me that in her past she had actually held a very rare and precious unset black diamond that had been in a safety deposit box since the turn of the century. "The 8 carat gem was solid carbon black, with very small inclusions, valued at tens of thousands of dollars. It came from the estate of one of the oldest families here in town, a DAR type family (Daughters of the American Revolution) who's patriarch was a shipping magnate." Since we didn't have one of these beauties, or even a tiny piece, we settled on sapphires and Beth transmitting the energetics of the adamant into the synergy.


A few days later I received the sparkling blue gemstones and the tincture. The sapphires were dazzling, while the tincture was extremely boozy with an odd iron note. I added half the sapphires to a shot glass with the words "Slainte Mhath!" that was gifted to me at the Outlander booth at Comic Con, the others were saved for the solid edition of the perfume. Next I began weighing and pouring the perfume synergy with some of the tincture and the 190 proof organic, grape alcohol. As I did this I was aware that the scent was not quite what I expected but decided to reserve an opinion until after the fragrance had melded a bit with the tinctures and alcohol. (Slainte Mhath translates as good health.)

After waiting a bit I took a sniff and found the fragrance to be an overly camphorous-resin, thus I went to work on adding essences to neutralize the herbaceous smoke qualities and add more top notes and tuberose. Why tubersose you ask, because traditionally this white floral diva pairs well with camphor.

After more melding the fragrance was still not working and I only had a couple days left! Thus, I choose to do something drastic and start some other synergies that I would then add the resiny/smokey brew too. Ultimately that proved to be a good move, one of the synergies was quite beautiful and worthy of Clair. Meanwhile, Beth was conducting magic via Ohio by infusing the energetics of the black diamond into the potion.


The result is a voluptuous, green floral with notes of violet. Longevity is weak, for my standards, but the fragrance is addicting. I am quite pleased and now have a new favorite. This first edition is quite small, more is in the works as well as a synergy for a solid version. As you can see from the photos, I've already found the blue wax, which synchronistically works perfectly with the associations of L'Heure Bleue, Jamies piercing blue eyes, sapphires and the crossing of water and time.

“It wasn’t yet dawn, and the forest was filled with mist and gray-blue light;
crepuscle, the mysterious half-light that comes at both ends of the day, when
small secret things come out to feed.”
~ Diana Gabaldon, Drums of Autumn


Find samples of La Dame Blanche contained within the trio or six pack set and a 1 gram vial here. The rectangular classic bottle and flacon will be added shortly.

Now that you've taken the time to read all of this please head over to be enchanted by the tale that Beth has spun for you at her Windshere Witch blog, along with your chance to win a sample of La Dame Blanche natural perfume.

Photographs: Roxana Villa, Mystic Current and Desert Mistress illustrations by Greg Spalenka

Thursday, October 30, 2014

Fund the Perfumery!


Updated May 2016

In mid-March of 2014 I found a great location for my perfumery. Auspiciously things aligned themselves and the glorious space manifested into a work / showroom / teaching space. A few things are still needed now to complete it. Below you will find some incentives to be one of the founders of the Roxana Illuminated Perfumery, first ever, studio/showroom! If you are new here, read more about me at this link on the website where there are a few more links to delve further.


I am in need of:
1. Counters for the perfume workshop  √
2. A display case for the showroom has been purchased, but I'm still paying it off.
3. Chairs, stools and/or bench for the teaching space
4. Stools for the display case



1. Glass Display Case
The display case has been purchased and is stunning, I need assistance paying it off.

2. Apothecary Inspired Counters
A local carpenter built the three counters for me, we painted them and with the help of Eve and Greg added some little curtains, they are terrific! DONE! √

3. Chairs, benches and stools
The chairs and stools are yet to be found. World Market has some chairs that are good options, so far I have one. I'm also hunting flea markets and estate sales. Ideally I'd like to have seating for eight more people.



{HOW TO}

~ To participate in this event click on the appropriate "DONATE" button for the item you desire if using PayPal. Donations can also be sent as via check or walking the funds into the perfumery as a check, cash or charged via square. Items are secured when funds have been received.

~ Some of these items being offered have no cards, special wax seals, etc., each item will have a simple label for identification.

~ If you have suggestions for other rewards not included here please send me a note with your ideas, I am happy to include more.

~ Please note that this Fan Funding Event will continue to morph and expand as needed, other items will be added soon. Check back often and share with your friends, family and social media platforms.


{ REWARDS }

Donate $1 or more
Receive copious amounts of love from all those who will benefit from having a physical location for a botanical perfumery in Agoura Hills, CA. Besides being an opportunity for a little good dharma your name will be listed on the website and in the shop as one of the supporting founders of the new space.
Estimated delivery: Immediate gratification



Donate $20 or more  (Sold Out)
2015 Spring Harvest of Woodland Honey from our wild feral bees. Tiny 1.5 x 2 inch glass jar with raw honey.


While moving items to the new space I discovered several bottles of fragrances that have been gently melding in a dark box. Now seems like the most auspicious time to share them and create space for the new!

Donate $75 or more (only FIVE available)
Vespertina Perfume Sketch
Classic rectangular bottle with 4 grams by weight of a rendition of Vespertina. This perfume was created with many of the same essences as the namesake in our ready-to-ware line however, this version features prominent "lilac" notes which the other does not. The perfume has been poured into a classic, rectangular bottle which is placed in a velveteen pouch, contained in a pillow box with three informational cards. The little bottle measures 7/8 inch wide x 1 3/4 inch high, the capacity of the bottle is 1/6oz (5ml). Four grams is equivalent to about 0.141 oz.
Estimated delivery: Immediate
Add $5 USD to ship outside the US

Donate $95 or more (only FIVE available)
Fern Perfume Sketch
The glass vessel contains a floral fern fragrance which was never taken to a finish. The perfume has been poured into a classic, rectangular bottle which is placed in a velveteen pouch, contained in a pillow box with three informational cards. The little bottle measures 7/8 inch wide x 1 3/4 inch high, the capacity of the bottle is 1/6oz (5ml). Four grams is equivalent to about 0.141 oz.
Estimated delivery: Immediate
Add $5 USD to ship outside the US





Donate $35
2015 Gardenia Infused Body Butter samples
Tiny tubs filled with hand infused gardenia body butter. This was created during the Summer of 2015 with fresh gardenia flowers placed on a bed of organic jojoba oil and local beeswax. It's heavenly!
Estimated delivery: Immediate


Adopt a Chair $250 (only FIVE available)
The Cocoa Paige Round Back Chairs, currently offered at World Market, have the perfect feel for the perfumery. We will add an engraving of your name to the back on this chair, which means that when you come to visit us or attend a class at the perfumery you will have your very own chair! Included in this reward is a sample set of five solid perfumes of your choice from our current line and/or the Gardenia infused butter, Mellifera and/or Fleurish.
Available: Immediate

Donate $600 or more
Join Roxana at the perfumery for a 90 minute scent experience touring her palette of rare and exotic botanical treasures. This special sensorium can be offered just for you or a group of friends.
Available: Immediate

Donate $1200 or more
Join Roxana at the perfumery for a three hour scent experience touring her palette of rare and exotic botanical treasures. This special sensorium can be offered just for you or a group of friends up to four people, includes lunch at the delicious Blue Table within the Whizin Market Square Atrium.
Available: Immediate


Please share and help make this happen, feel free to use my images when promoting. Isn't my new logo sweet.




Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Introducing Fleurish


Fleurish, a play on the french word fleur for flower and flourish a design embellishment used in calligraphy, is a luxurious jasmine solifleur with abundant notes of the indolic heady white floral laced with honey.

The fragrance was initially one of the trials for Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin, which some of you may have received as a sample last year. Fleurish is an extremely fresh and velvety floral with a duration of at least six hours with a intoxicating jasmine threaded through the top, middle and base of the fragrance. The formula not only contains three types of jasmines but also a bit of the Jasmine sambac tincture/infusion from my garden. A plethora of other sacred and precious ingredients such as a ten year vintage of Mysore sandalwood are intricately stitched like precious gem stones inlaid in a golden ring. As with all my perfumes this has been constructed using ONLY high end botanicals, absolutely no animal ingredients or isolates are included.

Fleurish is one of the items offered in the upcoming Fan Funding Event, and thus for a time being will only be available through that venue. It will be available for sniffing at the upcoming celebration of the new space on November 15th.

Sunday, October 26, 2014

Introducing Mellifera


Mellifera, meaning Honey (melli) Bearing or Maker (fera) is the second part of the name for our little honey bee. The entire name is Apis mellifera, apis being the genus.


I began the fragrance Mellifera in the summer of 2013 for the HoneyLove Wax Symposium held in Culver City. The fragrance is based on everything that makes up the realm of the honey bee including herself and tribe members, the hive (as in To Bee), the landscape where she forages and other interesting bits about her.

The orchestration was initially composed by listing everything relating to the honey bee in terms of scent and then pairing essences to those words. For example:

Queen bee: Lemongrass

Forage bee: Based on research regarding the hone bees "nasanov" (scent) gland secretions that have components related to Melissa officianalis and Eucalyptus citriodora Melissa, Eucalyptus citriodora and Geranium.

Honey: Ylang ylang and Mimosa

Propolis: Resin and spice

Hive: All of the above plus musk and wood

Landscape: Herbs, flowers and tree sap.

After that I took birds eye view of these ingredients and began to weave them together with other notes to support them, keeping in mind perfume structure. The final composition of twenty two ingredients, all botanical except for the beeswax absolute. The orchestration includes woods, resins, leaves, flowers, herbs, rinds and roots. One of the featured ingredients is helichrysum both from Croatia and Ojai California.

I found this interesting bit on the wordnik blog: "In Latreille's system, the fourth family of aculeate Hymenoptera; the Anthophila; the honeybees." and this bit from Wikipedia: "The first Apis bees appear in the fossil record at the Eocene–Oligocene boundary (23–56 Mya), in European deposits. The origin of these prehistoric honey bees does not necessarily indicate Europe as the place of origin of the genus, only that it occurred there then. A few fossil deposits are known from South Asia, the suspected region of honey bee origin, and fewer still have been thoroughly studied."

I have many healers and intuitives come by my new workspace in Agoura, one of them mentioned to me that honey bees originate from Mars, as do all colony based creatures.


When this little forager was named they believe that she was a male and thus many songs and poems refer to her as such, for example:

“The pedigree of honey does not concern the bee; A clover, any time, to him is aristocracy.”
~ Emily Dickinson, The Complete Poems


The main image for Mellifera is the crown, with the color harmony being antique gold and iconography related to the Goddess since the honey bee is mostly female. Greg took a some beautiful photos of my fellow "Summer essence sister" Sophie specifically for Mellifera, including this one which was previously shared.


Mellifera is one of the items offered in the upcoming Fan Funding Event, and thus for a time being will only be available through that venue. It will be available for sniffing at the upcoming celebration of the new space on November 15th.

Here is what Sarah said about it when I put a little sample in with a locket she ordered:

"I applied some Mellifera mid-morning, and it's still lingering (4+ hours later). Initially it smelled of sweet vanilla + pepper, with beehive (i.e., beeswax + sun-drenched pine wood) notes. A bit like a sweeter + lighter Impromptu. Now, a few hours after application, it smells like a sweeter, lighter Aumbre, which is FANTASTIC, and may account for its longevity on my skin (Aumbre lasts forever for me)."

The scent is most similar to the fragrances in the line that have earthy, resinous, herbal notes like Impromptu, Aumbre, Terrestre, Chaparral, etc. Some noses might perceive it as "medicinal" due to some of the spicy camphor notes.

Then there is what happens to the scent when it comes into contact with each persons chemistry expressing itself on our skin. Everyone experiences scent so vastly different, depending on the olfactory terrain that they are accustomed to. If you have smelled Mellifera please include your experience in the comments or e-mail them to me so that I can share with the rest of the tribe....or should I refer to us as a hive?

Related posts here at the Journal:
HoneyLove Yellow Tie Event: August 2014
Life is a Flower
HoneyLove Wax Symposium

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Wine and Cheese


I apologize for being absent from writing of late, here is an update of what's been happening. For the most part, all my energy is going to making perfume, packing orders and getting ducks in a row at the new workspace. 

The ducks include the Samhain decorations, the Fan Funding project (which is rather massive in scope), organizing and then re-organizing the workshop, new products, perfumes, logo, packaging and planning the opening. Everything fits together a bit like a puzzle as I need the funding to get some counters, the display case etc. but time is running out as I am intending to have the Celebration for the new space on November 15th! YIKES!!


Yesterday I met with Gina of Blue Table, the wine and cheese bar at the Whizin Market Square where the perfumery is. The intention was to do a little mind melding about what to serve at the opening and check out options. Right now we are considering either a spiced wine, a Vermouth beverage or Sangria with a infused water for those who don't drink alcohol.


We also discussed cheese and different herbals pairings. I love her eatery, Blue Table and go there quite often, my staple being the beet and goat cheese salad. While speaking with Gina she served me a gorgeous Vermouth paired with GingerBeer. I've never been much of an alcoholic beverage person, but am sensing that may change.


Blue Table reminds me a bit of Il Piatto, a deli my mother had with a friend during the 80's while I was attending Otis Art Institute in downtown. Il Piatto was located on Melrose, back when it was really "happening" in that part of Los Angeles. 

Thursday, October 16, 2014

NEWS: French Glass Flacons


At this moment in time the French glass flacons with the flat tops that fit into the crochet pouches are no longer available. The photo above is the last of them which was bought by a fan on the east coast. I do still have some flacons left with your choice of three tops like the rectangle above, the round pictured below or the one I call V-neck.


In the meantime I'm working on some labels for other bottles to offer as an alternative and changing all the listings online.

The redesign of the logo and bee has been an ongoing project for a few years now, worked on by several very talented folks but never quite to my standards. Last month I found a new gal who is in the process of working on it. If all goes well, those designs may be showing up quite soon.

Friday, October 10, 2014

Hearted



In the midst of herding all the elements for the Fan Funding Event together, the extravagant grand finale jasmine blooming cycle I came across a glorious glass apothecary cabinet for the new space. Although I thought all I needed was a simple glass case, when I found THE piece I realized no, this is the statement piece for the front section. Not only is it beautiful but evokes my great grandfathers apothecary in downtown Buenos Aires magnificently!


Of course its going to cause great chaos within the space. All the existing furniture and hangings will under go a massive shift, but I'm okay with it. Above is a simple photo of the piece taken hastily with my mobile, more soon.


Sunday, October 5, 2014

Autumn Community Event


On Saturday, October 11th, the yoga studio directly across from the perfumery has asked me to participate in a community event on the second floor of the atrium within the Whizin Market Square.


Although the perfumery will not have its official opening quite yet, we will have a special sneak peak on that day. I invite you to stop by and inhale deeply while seeing the progress that has taken place in and enjoying the wonderful community within the atrium.

Greg will be doing signings of his beautiful new book as well as have prints and other ephemera for sale. This is a great opportunity to get a head start on the holiday gift giving season!

Yoga Everyone will kick off the day with a meditation at 9am followed by free yoga classes.

Other participating vendors includes: KIND bars, Blue Table, Raw Love Bites Chocolates, Pivot Wellness and more!