Odorata

Gracing the Dawn in her solid manifestation is here! I know fans of this fragrance have been waiting quite a long time for this interpretation, thanks so much for your patience. The structure of this perfume follows what is considered a classic Chypre, a french word meaning Cyprus. Perfumes of this family traditionally are defined by notes of oakmoss and animal musk in the base, rose and jasmine at the heart and bergamot or fresh citrus within the top. Since I refrain from using the historical animal ingredients found in traditional natural Chypre perfumes, I created some faux natural accords to mimic civet, castoreum, ambergris and deer musk. There is also a very minuscule amount of Africa stone, the fossilized distilled droppings of a small animal known as a hyrax.

I use the term botanical perfumer to define what I do in the fragrance realm because I have chosen not to use the historical animal ingredients for ethical reasons. All artists find their path in different ways, mine was via the magical duirway of nature and the oak.

I refer to Gracing the Dawn as a violet perfume, although the violet note in the solid version of the fragrance is subtle, it is a more fictional representation. The main scent component of violet flowers comes from the naturally occurring chemical constituent ionones. The natural perfumer has no violet essential oil, C02 extract or absolute. There is a violet leaf absolute but the aroma is not one of the delicate little flowers we all adore. Opting for maximum nature in my fragrances I utilized Orris and a variety of other whole essences to convey the impression of violets. In the liquid version of this fragrance the violet note was further enhanced with a tincture of violet flowers.

It was my intention to release the solid version with an enfleurage of violets, but alas it is not ready yet. Thus, the addition of the precious infusion will come in future editions of the fragrance. The synergy of the solid is almost exact to that of her fragrance liquid counterpart. There are five accords, one of which is contained within another accord. The most complex of these accords is one I call Fern which is so pretty on her own I may release it as a perfume.

Here's a list of the included essences, which illustrates in the first six ingredients why this perfume is costly:

FLOWERS
Rose
Jasmine
Boronia
Night Queen
Tuberose
Orange Blossom
Osmanthus
Black Current
Narcissus
Ylang Ylang
Mimosa

RESINS
Oakmoss
Peru Balsam
Labdanum
Galbanum

WOOD
Agarwood
Sandalwood
Cedarwood
Guaicwood
Pine

HERBS
Chamomile
Parsley
Ginger
Patchouli
Celery
Clary
Sage
Cumin
Tumeric
Lavender
Rosemary
Juniper
Geranium
Basil
Caraway

OTHER
Violet Leaf
Ambrette
Cognac
Orris
Vetiver
SeaWeed
Choya Nakh
Spikenard
Beeswax
Neem

Solid Mini Sample 
5 gram Honey pot
Round Compact

More about Gracing the Dawn can be found at these links here at the journal: Perspective, October 2010 Gracing the Dawn, July 2010 The Dawn, July 2010

Opening photo by Roxana Villa, illuminated ©GregSpalenka. Find the Gracing the Dawn Flower of Fortune Cards and the print on etsy.