Equus caballus

The most Equine, horse-like, fragrance note in my palette as a natural, botanical perfume artist is Amberi Attar. Other notes that impart an overall impression of horse are those found in the following groups: leather, agrestic, grassy, coumarin, balsamic and animalic. The perfume I am developing with Michelyn Camen based on my birthplace of Buenos Aires, has an Equine accord. I created the accord to weave in the hay notes of the Pampas and an important part of Argentina's rich history and culture. Originally when I began this perfume several years ago I was focused on incorporating the rich, earthy aspect of the Pampas. As I teamed up with Michelyn and thought about the concept being focused on Buenos Aires and A Tale of Two Cities I expanded the idea. The Equine accord extends the reach a bit more and incorporates the game of polo, which Argentina dominates as the World Champion since 1949. The history of polo stems from the same region as that of perfume. The excerpt below is from a the Argentina Polo website: (Originally published in polonews.com, from: The Vancouver Sun)

"The King of Games" Let other people play at other things. The King of Games is still the Game of Kings.

This verse, inscribed on a stone tablet beside a polo ground South of the fabled silk route from China to the West, sums up the ancient history of what is believed to be the oldest organized sport in the world.

The name for this accord is Equus caballus. The notes of this accord will appear predominantly in the base with the notes from the Fruit accord making an appearance more in the heart and top notes of the fragrance. Read more about the upcoming perfume with the theme of Buenos Aires here at these links:

The Tale of Two Cities Forbidden Fruit

Forbidden Fruit

In the kitchen the other day I remarked, "Something smells fruity." My teenage daughter rolled her eyes answering, "Mom, everything smells fruity to you lately!"

Well, not everything, although I have been picking out the fruit note in a number of items that normally I would not have. It's as if my olfactory antenna is tuned to that fruity note. Our local farmers markets and CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program is abundant with fruit lately, amplified by the fact that I've been working on a fruity Chypre perfume.

As I develop other perfumes and accords I've become keenly aware of the note. Each time an essence crosses my olfactory terrain that has a semblance of fruit I add it to my expanding list. Some essences are obvious like those in the Citrus family and Osmanthus. I've got some Apple blossom concrete which is within the right family but has more agrestic qualities than fruit. Will see what transpires with the aroma when I dilute it in alcohol.

Why fruit? The addition of the fruit accord for this fragrance is at the request of Ms. Michelyn Camen. Read some of the back story about this fruity chypre by following this link.

The odors of this major fragrance family are of edible fruits such as apple, apricot, banana, berry, citrus, peach, pear, pineapple, and prune. For the botanical / natural perfumer we have plenty of aromatics are our disposal from the citrus subfamily and a few from the berry grouping. However, we rely on other materials which impart fruit notes, like Osmanthus for example. Osmanthus is an evergreen shrub/tree producing fragrant flowers native to China that is often referred to as The Jasmine of the Orient. Boronia and Champa are other exotic, rich floral notes that can be utilized for imparting fruit. Chamomile has a strong apple aromatic note while Ylang Ylang can sometimes convey the banana note. Absolutes from the conifer family contain fruit jam notes that will be part of this bouquet.

Essences which impart "wine" notes (referring to grapes), include Ambrette, Pomegranate, Davana and Cognac. The two later have the ability to impart fresh, fruity notes to the top of the composition when utilized with mindfulness. Sea Buckthorn is an extract from berries commonly used in aromatherapy that has sweet berry notes. I have not used it in a composition as of yet and am sensing it may work well in this accord.

With this fragrance I am also interested in essences with warm, honey notes like Genet, also referred to as Broom, Mimosa, Beeswax and Hay are possibilities. These will work well with conveying the Pampas, which plays an important aspect in my connection with Argentina. I'm just not sure if I will add them to the accord or the overall composition. We will see as this accord progresses and matures....just like fine wine.

Read part three of this segment here: Equus caballus.

Argentina

I was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina, a metropolitan port city in South America. At the age of three, my parents moved us to the United States to pursue the American Dream. Unlike the musical or film Evita, the Peron reign created havoc for the country. Thus, many immigrated to other parts of the world and continue to do so. Beginning in 1880 Argentina became one of the most prosperous countries of the world. Buenos Aires, meaning "Fair Winds" was considered the gem of South America. The downfall occurred with the arrival of Juan Peron in 1946.

We immigrated to America through New York City and settled in Southern California. My mother began working at a shop in Beverly Hills crocheting and knitting for the stars. Remember that little bohemian hat Ali MacGraw made famous back in the 70's? My mom made those! The producer Robert Evans would come to the shop and order them for his wife at the time, Ali. My mother also created the sparkly dresses Charo would wear on the Merv Griffin Show and Las Vegas.

Meanwhile my father began working with computers and eventually moved on to a clerk at LAX with Aerolineas Argentinas, the Argentine Airlines. This was a great advantage due to terrific travel fares. We would return to Argentina regularly, usually two times a year and often for extended stays during December and the Summer. Since Argentina is below the equator in December we would celebrate Christmas in Mar del Plata, a beach community. During our summer it was winter in Argentina, which meant skiing in the Andes and lots of rain and thunderstorms in Buenos Aires.

Two natural perfumers have made perfumes associated with my homeland. Mandy Aftel of Aftelier created Tango and Ayala Moriel is working on Gaucho. I find it so interesting that they have chosen to work with these themes. I have been developing a series of perfumes related to Argentina ever sense I first began to study Aromatherapy, however, they have been put on the back burner. The protection of the Coastal Live Oak has taken precedence. I will forever remember opening up our suitcases in Buenos Aires and my cousin Gaby exclaiming "Oh, there's that America smell!" Of course I was always partial to the scent of Argentina that permeated our suitcases on our return trip to the States.

Travel to Argentina
Wikitravel: Argentina
Feminine Style: Ali Mac Graw