Showing posts with label Word Rant. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Word Rant. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 7, 2016

Word Rant Wednesday


Wow, it's been since last January when I last hopped onto my bloody soap box and preached about correct word usage and definitions in the perfume industry. Thus, before another year arrives without me raging against the dying light, let's get on with it!

A few months ago a friend sent me a link to a blog post that referred to an iconic herbalist having challenges with essential oils. I won't mention the name since its not important. After some exploration I learned that some herbalists believe that we don't need essential oils. From what I was able to discern, this particular point of view argues that since a large quantity of plant material is needed to obtain an essential oil, the end product is very concentrated and thus both wasteful and potentially dangerous.

Different perspectives is a good thing and important, after all, there is no "one size fits all" and variety is what makes life interesting. There are many facets to a diamond, the more facets the more light is reflected.

In fact, after doing my own distillations I can resonate a bit with the "idea" that perhaps the plant material might be better utilized in its whole form and that the amount of water needed might be wasteful. This is particularly poignant here in Southern California where we have a sever drought. However, it really depends on what the plant material is, who is distilling and why, what the end result will be for the item, etc. I personally adore the hydrosols that have been obtained from the plant material from my garden, the farmers market and my other nearby growers. The benefits of the hydrosols have been marvelous and the aromatic waters contain chemicals that are not accessible in the raw plant material, as a tincture, infusion of an essentials oil. Each form will have a different imprint, a specific frequency based on the extraction, and each medium has a different use. For example, I might eat fresh spearmint leaves, use then in a tea, combine them with limes for a refreshing lime-aide on a hot day, or perhaps through them into a soup with fresh english peas. In fact, I have done all of those things in the last thirty days. However, that does not detract from the value of spritzing my face with the hydrosol while typing this blog post, using the essential oil on my temples or inhaling the aromatic molecules from my palms to provide a bit of clarity and energize my thinking or adding a tiny bit of the essential oil into an aromatherapy blend or perfume.

Just like we have many types of aromatics in the palette of perfume, we also have many types of extractions and ways to use them. Throughout history the "Still Room", the distillery room, was a big part of daily life containing herbs from the nearby garden.

"Still Rooms were places where freshly collected plants and flowers were utilised in many ways, and these traditions continued well into the Edwardian period. Herbs could be hung upside down in bunches and dried for household and kitchen use, or pounded to a paste and in their simplest form added to lotions and grease or fats to provide ointments, medicines and poultices, or added to water and allowed to quietly “distill” for bottling as herb-rich medicinal waters. These were strained off into bottles and stoppered with a cork or the fore-runner of today’s “clingfilm” – pig or sheep bladders, stretched tightly to produce an air-tight seal.

Honey-rich syrups were made by infusing herbs previously bruised in a mortar and pestle or by making a strong decoction – both methods requiring heating to reduce the liquid, then strained through muslin and honey added to sweeten. Colds and sore throats were often relieved by a rose-hip and lemon balm decoction with honey added to soothe and heal. In a static display it is difficult to show the process without a fire and bubbling potions reducing away, but we have an old copper full of herbs waiting to be infused with a ladle nearby for bottling – and a couple of completed bottles ready for use."1

According to one herbalist, the case against essential oils is that they are too concentrated and thus cause hormone disruption. This is followed by a reference to lavender oil causing young boys grow breasts. Oh my, really? Please follow this link to a post here at the journal from 2008 where I share insights into this very topic.



Ultimately we each will have to find our own truth, independent from what anyone says, that is the main tenet to the Art of Botanical Perfume course.

“If you meet the Buddha, kill him.”
~ Linji

1 From the The Rye Castle Museum blog post The StillRoom in the Tower

Thursday, January 7, 2016

Word Rant Wednesday: Isolates


So far for Word Rant Wednesday I've gone over the challenge with terms like natural/botanical and bee keeper. The word we are going to take a closer look at today is one used in the food and flavoring industries that spills into perfume and body care: isolates.


There are two types of isolate molecules, the first one has been "isolated" from the source material like geraniol from geranium, usually utilizing some type of fractional distillation.  The second, and most prevalent, are isolated molecules which have been recreated in a lab, "patented" and then sold as natural and organic, even if the source material is not from nature and contains GMO's.

As I've shared in the history portion of my classes on aromatherapy and botanical perfume how modern medicine, in its current format, was created by men with an agenda to promote their patented pharmaceutical drugs instead of the wise woman path of plants. For example aspirin instead of white willow bark or the removal of an organ from the body instead of working with the patient to change on dietary and lifestyle changes are two excellent examples.


By using isolates in perfume and body care companies and niche, natural & botanical perfumers, are able to pump up certain types of scents in the products easily and cheaply. Thus the company creating the components and the user are mutually benefitting. The planet and sensitive human beings are the ones who lose because these lab created chemicals are not harmonious with creating the terrain of healthy microbes we ideally need to be cultivating.

Why not just use the first type of isolates, those derived via fractional distillation? Good question, the challenge is two fold, first of all isolates are not whole and thus do not contain the entire spectrum of nature in all her wisdom. Secondly when sourcing these isolated molecules it is know if the component is actually derived exclusively from an essential oil or one of the second type, which is being sold under the guise of natural & organic.

How do you know if your using essential oils that contain isolates? Avoid conglomerates, many located in New Jersey, that sell both synthetic and natural aroma chemicals. Ask your essential oil supplier lots of questions and demand clear and concise answers.


Many companies we normally associate with green beauty like Weleda use isolates to fragrance their products, mainly because of industry requirements. In the field of natural perfume the secondary group of lab created isolates have become somewhat "in" to easily boost a note by using a single molecule. Recently I was about to order Citron essential oil that I had assumed was whole since it was listed as an essential oil with a country of origin. To my surprise, the supplier warned me against it since he knew I was very specific about not wanting any essences that contain isolates. Citron is a yellow, lumpy skinned fruit with a sweet, tangy green and floral notes. For now I'll be sticking with Bergamot instead of Citron or a chord with Lemon, Bergamot and a few others to continue on the path of formulating complex, authentic, botanical perfumes without compromising on ingredients.

If I wanted to get really fringe science with you, sorta Phillip K. Dick / sci-fi realm, we could contemplate the idea of the conglomerates mimicking nature and then wiping her out so that they would hold the patent on all life forms, but that would be a little over the top, right? Let's instead smell some heirloom roses and pretend I never implied such a crazy idea.

Read more about what is happening with isolates in this article from Cosmetics Design.

Text, imagery and photos © Roxana Villa

Wednesday, November 4, 2015

Word Rant Wednesday: Bee keeper


This weeks word rant refers to the use of the term bee keeper. Did you know that not everyone who uses the term "bee keeper” actually owns or wears a bee suit and/or manages their hives? Many of these folks use the term loosely to infer they have and tend to bees when really someone else is managing their hives for them. Sometimes the term is a marketing gimmick.


We live in a world where disinformation has reached astronomical levels. According to some theorists disinformation is a tactic to discredit true data and confuse the masses. On a small scale I observe individual makers and smaller brands doing it to get attention.


In the Spring of 2010 a hive of bees descended on our compost bin. Since then I have saved several colonies from the fate of extermination, including the feral hives which Greg and I are guardian to. For my business, whose emblem is the honey bee, it was a very magical and auspicious Spring day when our desire was made manifest. Not only did it give Illuminated Perfume a real mascot but it also gave me deeper insight into what was occurring with the bees. In turn I have been able to pull the veil on what is actually happening, which differs from what is reported in the media.


Conclusion, if the person using the word "bee keeper" isn't seen in a bee suit AND actively working on "their" hives on a regular basis don't make the assumption that they are actually a bee keeper. Yes, intentions are powerful, but truth is very much needed...especially if like me you are committed to authenticity.


Greg and I sustain quite a lot of stings from actively working with our hives, which is incredibly uncomfortable although good for the immune system. Thus, as you can tell, I get irritated with peeps using the word as a marketing gimmick. My daughter Eve took a bunch of photos while Greg and I were going through our two hives to investigate what was happening and if they were actually using the space in all those hive boxes. I'll post those photos next week. During that hive inspection we took a few frames of honey while we were at it...and sustained about twenty stings between the two of us. I refer to those stings as immune boosters, part of our apitherapy routine.


Photos taken by Rebecca Fishman back in September of 2012.

Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Word Rant Wednesday: Natural


This weeks word rant spotted in the media and elsewhere includes linguistic associated with perfume brands that DO NOT use whole, plant material in their formulations even though the descriptives make it sound like they do. It makes my job oh soooo very difficult, you have no idea.

The other big reveal, which I complain about often, is that almost in every case, labs create their products and perfume labs don't use whole essential oils, they use isolates which sometimes are synthetic, natural or a mix. One needs to be part detective and wordsmith to see beyond the (veil) marketing.

For example these are the ingredients on one "botanical" perfume being sold as "... exclusively crafted with an abundance of 100% natural .... known to be the purest and most precious in the world." You be the judge....

Jojoba oil: Simmondsia chinensis oil

Proprietary blend: citrus limon (lemon) fruit extract, juniperus mexicana oil, cupressus sempervirens leaf/nut/stem oil, citrus nobilis (mandarin orange) fruit extract, cananga odorata flower oil, dipteryx odorata (cumaru) bean extract, rosa centifolia flower extract, iris florentina root extract, carum carvi (caraway) seed oil, pogostemon cablin oil

(FYI: juniperus mexicana oil is Juniper, cupressus sempervirens leaf/nut/stem oil is a Mediterranean Cypress, cananga odorata flower oil is Ylang Ylang, rosa centifolia flower extract is Rose, iris florentina root extract is Orris and pogostemon cablin oil is Patchouli)

Cera bellina: Polyglycerol-3 beeswax
Hydrogenated jojoba oil (jojoba esters)
Beeswax: Cera alba
Shea butter: Butyrospermum parkii butter
Candelilla wax: Euphorbia cerifera,
Carnauba wax: Copernicia prunifera
Dimethicone, Magnesium stearate

It seems to me if you want to use the most precious materials in the world one would use organic, local beeswax, instead of bulking up with additives like:

Cera bellina: Polyglycerol-3 beeswax
Candelilla wax: Euphorbia cerifera
Carnauba wax: Copernicia prunifera (a palm which only occurs in the northeastern states of Brazil)
Dimethicone: Magnesium stearate

More words being used by big brands touting "natural perfume"...

True Nature
Organic formulator
Biodegradable
Certified organic perfume
Spiritual and agricultural sensitivity
Naturally....Natural fragrance
Botanical Essence
Health conscious
Sustainably sourced natural ingredients

and a few of the latest (2020):

100% Natural Derived
Plant Based Perfume Made From 100% Plant and Flower Materials
Beyond Clean

Conclusion, words mean nothing. In some cases only a small amount (2-10%) of synthetic aroma chemicals are added to formulations to increase longevity or ramp up the volume on a perfume, thus giving the company the ability to use the words above.

Edited: July 2020