The 2017 Edition of Blossom is here!

“Flowers always make people better, happier, and more helpful; 

they are sunshine, food and medicine to the mind.” 

― Luther Burbank

Just when you thought that perhaps you had enough yummy jasmine in our lives with the hydrosol, Cimbalom, Chiaroscuro and Fleurish, I bring you the 2017 edition of Blossom. Can you tell I love flowers, particularly jasmine?

This latest batch is particularly bright and beautiful, although it did give me lots of trouble due to all the different components that are part of her chemistry. Find her here, enjoy!

Perfume Illuminated: Lime

Perfume Illuminated is back with zesty and cheerful Lime! Might as well return in style with the marvelous little accent this green fruit offers to both fragrance and flavor.


Originating in the tropical and subtropical areas of Asia the Citrus aurantifolia is a small spreading tree similar to other citrus bearing plants of the Rutaceae botanical family. Bright, glossy green in color with neon yellow green pulp Limes can either be sour or sweet depending on the soil condition and climate of where they are grown. Limes were introduced to the West Indies via Spanish explorers in 1493, arriving to the shores of America in the 16th century.

Known as to prevent scurvy along with Limes sibling Lemon, the Annals of the Rheumatic Diseases document these vitamin rich fruits facilitate the prevention of arthritis.

FRAGRANCE

In herbal folklore Limes are associated with clearing negativity from a space, which might include ones head. For aromatherapy and botanical, natural perfume we have Lime essential oil, steam distilled or expressed from the peel or zest of the fruit. The green to pale yellow, clear essence has a jovial, uplifting quality. Lately I have had a bit of an obsession with Lime in fragrance and flavor. I have a new aromatic item appearing in the E-shop shortly which features this note, stay tuned!

The most valued essence of Lime is the expressed, also termed cold pressed, from the rind of the fruit. Extracts from different varieties and countries exist offering quite a diverse lime palette to the botanical perfumer. In culinary circles lime is used to boost and or bring out the flavors of other ingredients. The same property is also applied to Lime in natural and botanical perfume. Use lime with other citruses to boost and modify the citrus note. Lime also offers nice affects when paired with conifers, coriander, spearmint, rosemary, clary sage and an interesting contrast to an amber base.

LIME INFUSION

For today's associated DIY project let's make a Lime Infusion, sometimes called a Phytol. Infusions start with raw plant material, in the case of lime we will use the rind of the fruit where the bulk of the essential oil in contained. Since so many citrus fruits are covered with waxes I suggest obtaining organic fruit to avoid unwanted additives in your phytol and the food chain. Use a zester if you have one, or a grater to remove the skin. Make sure there no water content in the zest. Place the zest into a glass jar. Cover the rind with an oil such as jojoba, sunflower or olive and secure with a tight fitting lid. Place the jar outside in the full sun or next to a sunny window and shake everyday. After one to three weeks, or one full menstrum, strain the oil through cheese clothe to remove the plant matter and wahlah your phytol is now ready to use as a massage oil or a base for other aromatics goodies. If you make this infusion with olive oil it will serve as a delicious addition to salads and/or fresh bread. Store the infusion in a glass jar with a tight fitting lid, preferably in a cool dark location.

FLAVOR

Lime flavoring in food is used throughout many different cultures including Southwestern dishes of the US, Mexico, Vietnam, Thailand and Persia.

Now, off you go to the Goddess of flavor Beth Shreibman Gehring at the Windsphere Witch blog for her culinary magic illumination with Lime.

Images: Lime Postcard by Roxana Villa thanks to my great grandmothers postcards and the Lime photo by Darwin Bell, Exclusive crate label via CrateLablesonline, all other images by Roxana Villa.

Perfume Illuminated: Lemon

If it's Venus Day it must be the day we illuminate notes and flavors in perfume. Lemon is the flavor and fragrance that my co-creator Beth and I will delve into this day.

FRAGRANCE: Roxana Villa

Expressed from the peel of the lemon, this fresh, clarifying and uplifting essential oil is used in both aromatherapy and natural perfume. California is one of the leading producers of the expressed essence in the United States along with Arizona. Other countries producing the essential oil include Cyprus, Italy and my homeland of Argentina.

Indigenous to Northern India and Asia lemon came to Europe in the 12th century by way of crusaders. The seeds of the citrus fruit lime was introduced to the West Indies via Christopher Columbus in 1493. That same year the seeds of lemons arrived to the shores of America.


Here in California the citrus arrived in 1769 via Father Junipero Serra and his friars during the time the missions were being built. In 1840 the California citrus industry is born on two acres of land near what is now downtown Los Angeles. Read more about the history of Citrus in California at this informative timeline supplied by Sunkist.

Lemon essential oil is obtained by pressing the rind of the fruit to extract the green to pale yellow oil or via distillation. The pressed variety is the most widely sought after by those the aromatic field as it is the most fragrant. Rich in limonene, a monterpene, lemon essential oil has a wealth of therapeutic properties in aromatherapy. Below is a snippet from a newsletter I published in October 2001. The article is titled CREATING AN AROMATIC LIFESTYLE - Nature’s Disinfectants.

In our homes we can replace many toxic, synthetic chemicals with natural substitutes.
We, and our beloved blue planet, are organic beings. Using pure botanical products in our homes enhances our immediate environment, improves our immune systems, and adds to the growing awareness of natural products that support life and an organic agricultural industry. Unlike conventional cleansers, pure essential oils lift the spirit. The most effective form of using essential oils as a means of disinfecting is in the air. Odors, smoke, pollens and microbes can be substantially reduced and eliminated while cleansing the air. Essential oils provide the additional effect of elevating the mood of anyone within the vicinity of the aromatic molecules. The French doctor Jean Valnet found that many bacteria, fungus, parasites and viruses cannot survive in the presence of vaporized essences. For example: within fifteen minutes essential oil of Lemon can kill the meningoccus bacteria. Some of the most powerful bactericidal, antiviral and antifungal essential oils according to the doctor include Eucalyptus, Clove, Niaouli, Thyme, Garlic, Sandalwood, Lemon, Cinnamon, Lavender, German Chamomile and Peppermint.

As in aromatherapy, where lemon essential oil is used to uplift the spirit, in perfumery the light filled essence has similar properties. Adding the essence to natural perfume provides refreshing, fruity and sparkling top notes to a formula. In both aromatherapy and perfumery the essential oil can be used to obscure more therapeutic notes like those found in eucalyptus.

The most typical uses of essential oil of lemon is in a colonge. Here is a slightly altered formula for a traditional eau de Cologne from An Introduction to Perfumery by Tony Curtis and David Williams:

Bergamot 27 drops
Lemon 20 drops
Orange, Sweet 16 drops
Neroli 12 drops
Lavender 6 drops
Rosemary 4 drops
Thyme 1 drop
Clove Bud 1 drop
Petitgrain 3 drops
Clary Sage 2 drops
Benzoin 3 drops

Combine these essential oils and allow to sit for a few days or weeks to meld. Add the synergy to at least 300 drops of a high grade ethanol to create your natural cologne.

If you would rather purchase a handmade botanical cologne based on the infamous 4711, I suggest my recreation titled Blossom.

Please take a journey over to to read the continuation of Perfume Illuminated: Lemon

FLAVOR: Beth Shreibman Gehring
at the Windsphere Witch blog

Blossom @ Perfume Smellin' Things

Blossom, the Eau de Cologne crafted in the style of a traditional cologne, is reviewed by Tom over at Perfume Smellin' Things. I suspect that this items popularity lies in the citrus components. Essences derived from the fruits and flowers of the citrus family are very fresh and uplifting.

Please pay dear Tom a visit over at the Perfume Smellin' Things blog. If you happen to have a bottle of Blossom handy, your scent impressions would be a great addition to the commentary. Blossom is currently available in its second edition, exclusively at my little boutique at Etsy, in a small spray bottle and a 1oz amber bottle size. Supplies are limited.

Read more about the crafting of this traditional Eau de Cologne here at the journal by following this link.

The Circle: Ghostly Orange

Day six of our ADVENTure brings us a citrus tinged treat for our entry into the weekend. Yesterday we had the feminine voice of Memory and Desire. Today we are fortunate to have a contribution at the same location by Jason, the vital and supportive masculine, with the keen sensitivity of an artist. Thus please board the cruise liner as we journey to remote Japan, Australia and the realm of olfactory memory.

The Circle: Ghostly Orange

Blossom

A new batch of Blossom Eau de Cologne is now available. This is a traditional cologne based on the classic equation of combining herb with citrus. In November 2005 I decided to create a traditional eau de Cologne which spurred on the Lavender perfume titled Vera. In May 2008 I revisited the genre and formulated a light and fresh eau de Cologne that contains some of the same language of a beloved cologne from Argentina titled Colonia de Bebe and 4711. In fact when my mother inhaled Blossom she exclaimed "Colonia de Bebe!"

Blossom has been formulated in the same manner of the colognes of olde. I utilized therapeutic grade essential oils and absolutes, hydrosols, plant tinctures, organic grape and grain alcohol. The fragrance is very fresh like sheer light. The predominant note is Orange Blossom with secondary impressions of herb and wood.

The essences used include: Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli, Thyme, Rosemary, Cistus and Jasmine.
This cologne has a refreshing effect on the skin and uplifting to mind, body, spirit.


As mentioned above, 5 grams of the cologne are contained in a small glass spritzer bottle with a white top and lid. Perfect for a purse, diaper bag, your pocket, etc. This delightful bouquet is also available in a 1 ounce amber glass bottle.

Flowers in Aromatherapy and Morphological systems uplift and blossom open the heart. Hence the name for this cologne Blossom.

herb + citrus = EDC

History on eau de Cologne is quite varied and difficult to pin down exactly where the word and formula came from. It appears the term eau de Cologne was coined by French soldiers stationed in the city of Köln, Germany. History tells us the first EDC was a toilet water developed by Jean-Paul Feminis and popularized by the Farina family. However the origins of toilet waters most likely began with Hildegard von Bingen in 1100. A visionary and herbalist, the Abbess of Bingen wrote several treaties on flora and fauna, created musical plays, and is credited as the originator of lavender water. Both “Carmelite water” and “Hungary water”, thought to have been developed by nuns and monks in Europe during the 1200’s, are the precursors to eau de Cologne.

A traditional eau de Cologne combines citrus with herb. A modern botanical rendition consists of citrus essences such as: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Petitgrain and Neroli with herbals Lavender, Rosemary and Thyme. Occasionally a resin, such as Benzoin of Siam, is added as a fixative. The original Carmelite water was comprised of the herbs Melissa and Angelica, where as Hungary water featured Rosemary. Both these formulas were considered cure alls for a variety of ailments deemed miracle waters, Aqua Mirabillis. Later they became much more complex and eventually morphed into the classic we know as eau de Cologne with a refreshing melding of citrus with herb. The traditional eau de Cologne is not meant as a perfume but as a fresh spritzer for the mental and physical body.

The famous fragrance 4711, is a descendant of the original Farina family eau de Cologne, (German: Kölnisch Wasser). A copy of the Farina version was created by Wilhelm Muhlens and later established as 4711 by the grandson Ferdinand Mulhens. The number 4711, pronounced forty seven eleven, is a street address in Germany. The popular brand has passed many hands over the years and is now in possession of the Farina family.

4711 was one of my standard fragrances before I discovered essential oils. A simple eau de Cologne is easy to make and provides a lovely refreshing quality as we move into the warmer months. Below is a basic formula. I encourage you to experiment with different essences and the proportion of citrus to herb. I’ve seen one formula that utilizes spearmint as the herbal component and lemongrass as the citrus. If you choose to use lemongrass keep in mind that it has a very strong odor and should be used in small increments. Lemongrass is one of those genie in the bottles whose scent can multiply over time. Utilizing aromatherapy knowledge a calming synergy would include Lavender and perhaps a touch of Chamomile with Bergamot and Mandarin. A stimulating synergy might include Rosemary, Basil and or Peppermint in combination with Lemon and Lemon Verbena. The possibilities are endless, follow you nose.

INGREDIENTS

Essential oil Synergy (see below)
7 drops distilled water or hydrosol
90 mls Alcohol: Use perfumers alcohol. Vodka, rum, or brandy can be used if perfumers alcohol is not an option.

Essential Oil Synergy
25 drops Bergamot essential oil
15 drops Lemon essential oil
4 drops Neroli essential oil
4 drops Rosemary essential oil
1 drop Thyme essential oil
1 drop Benzoin essential oil

1. Combine essential oils together into a glass bottle with a tight fitting lid. Allow to meld or move on to to step two.
2. Add essential oils to your alcohol, allow to meld or move on to to step three.
3. Add water drop by drop to the blend and allow to set in a cool, dark space with lid tightly secured for at least a few days, a month to a week is best.
4. Decant or filter into a colored glass atomizer.
5. Spritz as needed.

SUPPLIERS

Essential Oils:
Floracopeia
Eden Botanicals
Sunrose


Bottles:
Sunburst Bottle Company

Alcohol:
Remet Corporation (562) 921-0911 / (714) 739-0171

Images are old engravings which I have scanned, cleaned up and placed on parchment paper utilizing Photoshop, each is ©Roxana Villa.

References:

Kelville, Kathy, Green, Mindy "Aromatherapy: Complete Guide to the Healing Art", 1995, The Crossing Press

Williams, David, "Perfumes of Yesterday", 2004, Michelle Press

Holidaze

Stress levels seem to be on the rise. Primarily due to over extension of our many selves. I'd like to suggest taking an aromatic break with pure essential oils. Essential oils have the dual purpose of lovely aromatic components which contain documented therapeutic affects.

A general favorite essential oil or essence category is citrus. The essences within this genus is vast and offers something for everyone, just look at this list:

• Bergamot
• Clementine
• Grapefruit
• Lemon
  
• Lime
• Mandarin / Tangerine
• Neroli
  
• Orange
• Petitgrain
• Yuzu

We can go even deeper down the rabbit hole and see that each essence listed above has multiple versions, in species, extraction process and country of origin. However, I digress, the
intent of this post is to give some easy examples of reducing stress using these miraculous gems from nature.

The citrus family of essences is considered uplifting, calming, cheerful, refreshing, etc. The downside is that one must use them mindfully to avoid skin sensitivity.

Other essential oils for anxiety and stress include:

• Angelica Root
• Cedarwood
  
• Chamomile, German
• Frankincense
• Geranium
• Jasmine
  
• Lavender
• Marjoram
• Melissa
• Palmarosa
  
• Patchouli
• Rose
  
• Sandalwood
  
• YlangYlang
• Vetiver

Long list huh! An easy way to use these during times of stress is to simply place one drop in the palm of a hand, place both hands together, rub then open the palms and inhale. AH! By taking a simple moment to reconnect with the plant world we reconnect with our true inner essence and thus create a little peace and balance.

Image above, old engraving on a grapefruit on tattered parchment ©Roxana Villa.