Perfume Illuminated: Rosemary

"There's rosemary, that's for remembrance."
(Hamlet, iv. 5.)

Rosmarinus, meaning "dew of the sea" in Latin, is the first binomial name for Rosemary. The full botanical name is Rosmarinus officinalis. Part of the Lamiaceae (previously known as Labiatae) family, this evergreen flowering shrub has it's origins in the Mediterranean, specifically Spain and Morroco.

At today's installment of the Perfume Illuminated Project we will visit this fresh, herbaceous plant that features prominently in dishes of the Mediterranean region and perfume formulas of the past.

FRAGRANCE

Right now, along the back hillside the rosemary is in full bloom with tiny delicate, pungent, and camphorous blue flowers. The European honey bees and sweet little golden finches have been frequenting the slope covered Rosemary shrub frequently lately.


The needle like leaves are where the pale yellow essential oil is stored. For the aromatherapist and natural perfumer the steam distilled essential oil is available in different chemotypes. The chemotype (ct) is determined by the conditions of where the plant is grown and/or where the plant is within it's cycle. The chemotype of Rosemary found in Tunisia is Rosemary ct 1.8 Cineole Rosemary ct Verbenone tends to grow near the coast as in France and California. Each of the different chemotypes has a distinct quality to the aroma and varying therapeutic actions on the body.

The culinary odor of rosemary falls primarily within the herbaceous family of notes in perfumery with others such as Lavender and Sage. A fine quality oil will also impart woody, resinous and balsamic notes depending on the chemotype.

Rosemary in perfume has it's history as a main ingredient in "Hungary Water" a revitalizing preparation created for the Queen of Hungary during the late 1300's. Reputed as the first alcohol based European perfume, "Hungary Water", was the precursor to Eau de Cologne (EDC).

The original "Hungary Water" appears to have been a very simple tincture of Rosemary twigs steeped in wine for several days. Over the formula evolved with more herbaceous and some floral elements added in.

In Section III of the book "The Art of Perfumery" by Septimus Piesse the following formula is found for his interpretation of "Hungary Water":

***

By distilling the Rosmarinus officinalis a thin limpid otto is procured, having the characteristic odor of the plant, which is more aromatic than sweet. One cwt. of the fresh herb yields about twenty-four ounces of oil. Otto of rosemary is very extensively used in perfumery, especially in combination with other ottos for scenting soap. Eau de Cologne cannot be made without it, and in the once famous "Hungary water" it is the leading ingredient. The following is the composition of

Hungary Water.

Rectified alcohol,	1 gallon.
Otto of English rosemary,	2 oz.
" lemon-peel,	1 oz.
" balm (Melissa),	1 oz.
" mint,	1/2 drachm.
Esprit de rose,	1 pint.
Extract of fleur d'orange,	1 "

It is put up for sale in a similar way to eau de Cologne, and is said to take its name from one of the queens of Hungary, who is reported to have derived great benefit from a bath containing it, at the age of seventy-five years. There is no doubt that clergymen and orators, while speaking for any time, would derive great benefit from perfuming their handkerchief with Hungary water or eau de Cologne, as the rosemary they contain excites the mind to vigorous action, sufficient of the stimulant being inhaled by occasionally wiping the face with the handkerchief wetted with these "waters." Shakspeare giving us the key, we can understand how it is that such perfumes containing rosemary are universally said to be "so refreshing!"

***

FLAVOR: Beth Schreibman Gehring
Please continue reading about Rosemary at the Windesphere Witch blog

Blossom

A new batch of Blossom Eau de Cologne is now available. This is a traditional cologne based on the classic equation of combining herb with citrus. In November 2005 I decided to create a traditional eau de Cologne which spurred on the Lavender perfume titled Vera. In May 2008 I revisited the genre and formulated a light and fresh eau de Cologne that contains some of the same language of a beloved cologne from Argentina titled Colonia de Bebe and 4711. In fact when my mother inhaled Blossom she exclaimed "Colonia de Bebe!"

Blossom has been formulated in the same manner of the colognes of olde. I utilized therapeutic grade essential oils and absolutes, hydrosols, plant tinctures, organic grape and grain alcohol. The fragrance is very fresh like sheer light. The predominant note is Orange Blossom with secondary impressions of herb and wood.

The essences used include: Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli, Thyme, Rosemary, Cistus and Jasmine.
This cologne has a refreshing effect on the skin and uplifting to mind, body, spirit.


As mentioned above, 5 grams of the cologne are contained in a small glass spritzer bottle with a white top and lid. Perfect for a purse, diaper bag, your pocket, etc. This delightful bouquet is also available in a 1 ounce amber glass bottle.

Flowers in Aromatherapy and Morphological systems uplift and blossom open the heart. Hence the name for this cologne Blossom.

Vera

I first experimented with an EDC, eau de Cologne, in November of 2005. I built the fragrance utilizing a tincture of bay leaves and a synergy combining bay laurel essential oil with spices and citrus. It was the first time I had ever added water to a combination of alcohol, essential oils and tinctured material. Referring back to my meticulous note taking I notice it took a few tries to get the whole darn thing working.
The secret lies in the drop by drop approach followed by filtration. The process definitely reminds one of how closely linked to alchemy perfume making is.

In December of 2007 I decided to attempt a more traditional EDC incorporating the classic herb and citrus combination. This is something I had been sketching and pondering for years. The first perfume I ever wore was an Argentine cologne which my mother and grandmother doused me in regularly. It was fabricated by my grandfathers company Quimica Estrella. My cologne experiment didn’t get very far due to other obligations. However three months later, in February 2008, I was contacted by Sandy Messori of Rivendell Aromatics to be the keynote speaker at the Ojai Lavender Festival. I decided to continue my EDC experiments with the intention of creating a fragrance devoted to Lavender specifically for the event. The EDC path took me to the creation of the botanical perfume Vera, named after true Lavender, Lavandula vera. In nomenclature the term "vera" has now been replaced by angustifolia or officinalis referring to the official plant used in medicinals.

Vera began as a traditional eau de Cologne combining citrus with lavender. The fragrance surpassed the simplicity of an EDC with the addition of several base notes and a fully developed heart. I decided to paint an authentic landscape of Ojai with this fragrance and thus tinctured both Lavender and Sage. Both herbals used in the tincture were grown in Ojai. I also utilized essential oils that were distilled in the region by locally grown plants. Upon studying the history of the area I weaved in notes associated with the first natives and the Chumash Indians. The addition of Orange Blossom in the heart was brought in for the orange groves that have become emblematic with the region.

Vera Botanical Perfume
Roxana at the 2007 Ojai Lavender Festival
Rivendell Aromatics
Ojai Lavender Festival
Roxana Illuminated Perfume™

Image of Bayrum bottle at top and Lavender at bottom are old engravings I placed on parchment in Photoshop ©RoxanaVilla.

herb + citrus = EDC

History on eau de Cologne is quite varied and difficult to pin down exactly where the word and formula came from. It appears the term eau de Cologne was coined by French soldiers stationed in the city of Köln, Germany. History tells us the first EDC was a toilet water developed by Jean-Paul Feminis and popularized by the Farina family. However the origins of toilet waters most likely began with Hildegard von Bingen in 1100. A visionary and herbalist, the Abbess of Bingen wrote several treaties on flora and fauna, created musical plays, and is credited as the originator of lavender water. Both “Carmelite water” and “Hungary water”, thought to have been developed by nuns and monks in Europe during the 1200’s, are the precursors to eau de Cologne.

A traditional eau de Cologne combines citrus with herb. A modern botanical rendition consists of citrus essences such as: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Petitgrain and Neroli with herbals Lavender, Rosemary and Thyme. Occasionally a resin, such as Benzoin of Siam, is added as a fixative. The original Carmelite water was comprised of the herbs Melissa and Angelica, where as Hungary water featured Rosemary. Both these formulas were considered cure alls for a variety of ailments deemed miracle waters, Aqua Mirabillis. Later they became much more complex and eventually morphed into the classic we know as eau de Cologne with a refreshing melding of citrus with herb. The traditional eau de Cologne is not meant as a perfume but as a fresh spritzer for the mental and physical body.

The famous fragrance 4711, is a descendant of the original Farina family eau de Cologne, (German: Kölnisch Wasser). A copy of the Farina version was created by Wilhelm Muhlens and later established as 4711 by the grandson Ferdinand Mulhens. The number 4711, pronounced forty seven eleven, is a street address in Germany. The popular brand has passed many hands over the years and is now in possession of the Farina family.

4711 was one of my standard fragrances before I discovered essential oils. A simple eau de Cologne is easy to make and provides a lovely refreshing quality as we move into the warmer months. Below is a basic formula. I encourage you to experiment with different essences and the proportion of citrus to herb. I’ve seen one formula that utilizes spearmint as the herbal component and lemongrass as the citrus. If you choose to use lemongrass keep in mind that it has a very strong odor and should be used in small increments. Lemongrass is one of those genie in the bottles whose scent can multiply over time. Utilizing aromatherapy knowledge a calming synergy would include Lavender and perhaps a touch of Chamomile with Bergamot and Mandarin. A stimulating synergy might include Rosemary, Basil and or Peppermint in combination with Lemon and Lemon Verbena. The possibilities are endless, follow you nose.

INGREDIENTS

Essential oil Synergy (see below)
7 drops distilled water or hydrosol
90 mls Alcohol: Use perfumers alcohol. Vodka, rum, or brandy can be used if perfumers alcohol is not an option.

Essential Oil Synergy
25 drops Bergamot essential oil
15 drops Lemon essential oil
4 drops Neroli essential oil
4 drops Rosemary essential oil
1 drop Thyme essential oil
1 drop Benzoin essential oil

1. Combine essential oils together into a glass bottle with a tight fitting lid. Allow to meld or move on to to step two.
2. Add essential oils to your alcohol, allow to meld or move on to to step three.
3. Add water drop by drop to the blend and allow to set in a cool, dark space with lid tightly secured for at least a few days, a month to a week is best.
4. Decant or filter into a colored glass atomizer.
5. Spritz as needed.

SUPPLIERS

Essential Oils:
Floracopeia
Eden Botanicals
Sunrose


Bottles:
Sunburst Bottle Company

Alcohol:
Remet Corporation (562) 921-0911 / (714) 739-0171

Images are old engravings which I have scanned, cleaned up and placed on parchment paper utilizing Photoshop, each is ©Roxana Villa.

References:

Kelville, Kathy, Green, Mindy "Aromatherapy: Complete Guide to the Healing Art", 1995, The Crossing Press

Williams, David, "Perfumes of Yesterday", 2004, Michelle Press