Showing posts with label Definitions. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Definitions. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 19, 2021

The Mark of Hands

My hands with Santa Fe lilacs ©RoxanaVilla

As our world continues to rotate more and more toward automation and tech, it is crucial to acknowledge and uphold the heritage of the mark of hand and fragrance making. By respecting traditions, along with the linguistics that accompany those rich customs woven with wisdom, we then acknowledge the cultures who birthed these ways of being in the world. From this perspective, there exists an inherent balance, bringing us into living at peace and in harmony with the Earth.

“You must live in the present, launch yourself on every wave, find your eternity in each moment. Fools stand on their island of opportunities and look toward another land. There is no other land; there is no other life but this.”

― Henry David Thoreau


Perfume, the story of a murderer film screen shot 

Enfleurage, a method of capturing scent from delicate flowers, likely invented by the Ancient Egyptians and then resurrected by the French was highlighted at the recent Pitti Fragrance conference in Italy.

After some investigation, I see that although the highlighted process is being termed enfleurage, it is actually an oil infusion of flowers performed in India that the flavor and fragrance manufacturer have decided to refer to as enfleurage.

Once more, we have the re-invention of a traditional word attributed to a process, or term, of something other than what it is. I've seen this occur with the word Cologne, a city in Germany that has deep historical roots in creating a light and refreshing citrus and herb spritz. The term cologne is now being used to define a fragrance for men of a solid fragrance, instead of using the generic word perfume, that appears to have taken on a feminine connotation.

The challenge with ascribing new and/or different meanings to words, is that the true origin and historical context of the actual definition diminished and under valued. 

This occurs within the corporate fragrance industry, as illustrated with the attribution of the term enfleurage at the Pitti conference, but also in the indie maker community. At the root of this conjuring trick, like the shell game on the streets of New York City, this sleight of hand ripples out and undermines cultural legacies.

The cause of dismissing humanities lineage is most often rooted in greed and ignorance. Becoming more and more obvious, with each day, is the domination of corporate institutions who favor special interests and profits over the benefit of the planet and or human beings. 

Joel Bakan's book, which was made into a film, The Corporation: The Pathological Pursuit of Profit and Power is an excellent example. If we observe the actions within a range of industries such as: pharmaceutical, oil, manufacturing and advertising, greed is the primary behavior at the core. When this occurs, the value of cultural legacy is significantly undervalued. One example that illustrates this concept quite vividly is the hunger for domination by the killing, removing or polluting indigenous people and their lands. Here in New Mexico, the mining and milling of Uranium being used for nuclear energy is a prime example. "This practice has caused problems, including on Navajo lands where more than half of small, abandoned uranium mines from the middle of the 20th century and their wastes remain."1

On the other end of the spectrum are the artisan makers who are not primarily motivated by greed, but sometimes possess a bit of ignorance and/or lack of education where they then ascribe a historical word to fit their needs. Like with the word cologne, as mentioned above, you can read more of my rant regarding the misuse of perfume words here.

Whether with a conglomerate, a perfume organization or an indie maker we observe a deficit of respect. Perhaps its due to our modern times, with so much greed running the world. Certainly our political leaders are not good role models. Gee, have you seen the documentary Planet of the Humans, produced by Michael Moore? That was eye opening, and although enlightening, very depressing. 

The best role model I have found that embodies integrity is Vandana Shiva, if you don't know about her check out The Seeds of Vandana Shiva. When we honor our roots and esteem those who came before us in tandem with deeply bowing to Mother Earth, then appropriating and redefining words for corporate and self interest will no longer surface as a prominent behavior amongst humans.

Related to the long tail of honoring words and their original definitions is supporting small, indie and handmade as a form of respect, preservation and spiritual path—a small act that does great good. As the world continues to shift, we gain more perspective on the critical need for each of us to become more fluid and aware.

If you’ve been following my work as an artist, whether visual or aromatic, than this may be repetitive. I bring it up again as a crucial reminder to our evolution. By focusing our attention on the arts, beauty, indie makers, those who work with nature and their hands, we contribute to the entire fabric of life. It is one of those very small acts that has great value, and undulates out, diminishing the power of the corporations and their ferocious need for greed.

It's crucial that we each take individual responsibility for what has happened to the world and begin to focus on small acts that contribute to the entire ecosystem and our personal role in the survival of humanity, nature and kindness

The mark of the hand, whether in a teacup, a journal, a bracelet, a small plant or food grown from traditional seed—each contains the subtle energy of a maker, each contains a vitality of incalculable worth.


1. EPA.gov website

Wednesday, July 8, 2020

NATURE not natural


The word natural is getting even more abused than when I first started making fragrance. Most perfume brands claiming to be “natural" go to extreme measures to hide that they use any type of synthetics by greenwashing their wording and confusing the public.

A few terms I have been seeing a lot lately are:

"100% Natural Derived"
"Plant Based Perfume Made From 100% Plant and Flower Materials"
"Beyond Clean” 

The reason this is happening is because there is a demand for true plant fragrance, the tragic part is that these terms above, and many others, don’t actually mean anything. It’s really challenging when your brand is based on authenticity. As I have mentioned before, these smoke & mirror shenanigans make my job really difficult.

My “people" then think they are allergic to all perfume, including those made from plants, when what they are actually allergic to is the synthetics and isolates contained within fragrances. In the past I confronted a few perfumers about their use of words and was answered with "The word we live in is all maya anyway." What the heck kind of answer is that!

Here are a few post here at the journal that provide more information on this topic:

Word Rant Wednesday series:

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Eau de Parfum and other fragrance terminology


Recently I was asked a question based on this one "What is the difference between perfume, parfum extrait and an Eau de Parfum?" I thought I'd address it here at the journal so that in the future I can send peeps to this source.



Perfume is a generic word, the origin comes from the Latin, per “through” and fumus “smoke”, thus “through smoke”. This verbage most likely alludes to the use of gums and resins as incense or herbs strewn over fires to impart a pleasant aroma.

ALCOHOL

Most perfumes are a combination of a base material, like alcohol for example, and fragrance. The alcohol in beverages and perfume is ethanol also called ethyl alcohol. There are many types of ethanol alcohol with a proof varying from 90 to 200. Alcoholic beverages such as beer, wine and spirits begin as raw plant matter (grains, fruits, etc.) that get fermented or distilled. For example if we ferment barley we get beer, where as if we distill barley we get scotch.

Main stream perfume uses "denatured alcohol" as their delivery system of choice. The term "de-natured" means that the alcohol has had several chemical additives such as: methanol, pyridine and methyl violet to make it unfit for drinking.1 This type of alcohol is considered toxic and in my opinion shouldn't even be applied to the skin.

Most natural and botanical perfumers who are creating their own perfumes, not lab created, are using a high proof, pure ethanol. Although one should never make assumptions, after all "natural" can mean many things these days.

FRAGRANCE

The fragrance portion in perfume is what will determine whether it is a perfum, eau de parfum, cologne, toilet water etc. These terms have to due with concentration of fragrance to base material. Unfortunately many "crafters" entering the perfume industry are using the term cologne to mean a mens parfum extrait which has added a new level of confusion to the consumer.


Historically a "Parfum extrait" is from 15% to 30% or more of fragrance to alcohol. All other percentages under 15% are classified as Eau de Parfum, Toilet Waters and Colognes. The reason an extrait will be more expensive than the other formats is because the final product contains a higher percentage of fragrance. A perfume extrait is usually dabbed on, often sold in stopper bottles or flacons. Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilet are pump spray type fragrances that are meant to be atomized onto the skin. Toilet waters, colognes and other formats such as Eau fraiche and splash cologne are yet more terms used to describe lighter versions than a Parfum extrait. In traditional and conventional perfumery water is added to the alcohol and fragrance equation, the amount of H20 varies.

Generally the lighter the concentration the weaker the potency of the fragrance. However, this is not always true...particularly with the fragrances I create. I've been having many of customers inform me that the Eau de Parfums seem to perform better in terms of longevity than the Parfum extraits and the solids. I believe the reason is because when aromatic molecules get sprayed into the air and land, the diffusion of the molecules is over a larger surface and thus evaporate differently. Specifically creating better silage (scent trail).


Fragrances in a cream-like base and oil perfumes will, in general, follow the Parfum extrait model of 15 to 30% or more concentration. In some instances people apply an essential oil full strength (100%) to the skin, so you can see how these are only a general guidelines.

1 Wikipedia

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Is botanical perfume for you?


Botanical perfume is a niche market, appealing to those who are seeking a more authentic experience with nature and the vitality of a fragrance made by hand with a palette of botanicals. As mentioned in the post defining botanical perfumery, the word "natural" does not mean what we believe it to mean, especially within the beauty and food industries.

When we purchase a fresh bouquet of flowers, fruits or vegetables at the farmers market, from a local grower using organic methods, we are supporting an individual who has made a conscious choice. Unlike the big flower and food producers in other parts of the world, they are choosing to farm in a manner that supports the environment, even it it means keeping their business small. We are also supporting our local community.

Did you know that most of the flowers at the supermarkets and membership-only warehouse clubs are grown in Ecuador where there are no to little restrictions on the use of pesticides? The flowers are shipped to the US, inspected for insects and then often sprayed at the airport with more pesticides. Thus, next time you put your nose in a store bought flower and take a deep breath, keep this little tidbit of information in mind.

A true botanical perfume will not last for hours on end, although there are some that will last longer than others, this is dependent on skin chemistry and the amount of base notes in the fragrance. A great metaphor for botanical perfume is that fresh bouquet of flowers I mentioned early on in this post. When we purchase fresh flowers we want to bring that vital, fresh nature component into our home. Often it is for the visual aspect, sometimes for the aroma or both. A botanical perfume, like that fresh bouquet is alive, over time it will dwindle. The beauty is temporal. If longevity is important please follow this link to these other posts:
Questions, Answers and GreenWitch
Immortal

My goal is to work in harmony with nature, using authentic botanicals and mimicking the inherent wisdom of mother nature. Thus I use a palette which I has specific rules, for example, I do not use any or ever have, nor advocated the use of, historic animal ingredients such as civet, castoreum, ambergris and deer musk. I do not use isolates, even if they are stated to be natural because in truth, most are not natural and have been developed in a laboratory. I prefer not to use materials that have undergone splicing or from a vendor that honorable. Some vendors sell ingredients labeled incorrectly.

In general, the liquid perfumes last longer than the solids, GreenWitch being the most long lasting of all the fragrances in my line. Blossom and Gracing the Dawn are the most ethereal.



The other component of this work is beauty and art. An intention to illuminate the value of perfumes made in collaboration with nature alongside the history and romance of fragrance. Sometimes this part can be extremely tricky since budgets are so small and manufacturers of containers require high minimums. This is where creativity becomes very useful and which I began using the color coded wax seals. There is tremendous mindfulness and thought put into the concept of each fragrance and how to tell its story. At the moment my husband Greg and I create visuals and LookBooks to facilitate an experience of the fragrance.

Many thanks to those who have been loyal patrons of this work, its is because of you that we are able to continue doing this work and getting the message about our connection to nature to all sentient beings who are ready to hear it.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Definitions: Tincture


As part of the Perfume Illuminated series I am starting a section on descriptions so that when we delve into our formularies we have a point of reference.

Tincture:
tinc ture /ting(k)-cher/
An alcohol extraction of a material utilized in herbal medicine, cosmetic preparations and natural perfumery. The etymology of the word comes from the latin tinctura meaning "to dye", in reference to color and tint.

In natural botanical perfume we use tinctures primarily to extract the aroma of a substance. This methodology is also used to draw out the color and or magical properties of the prima materia.

Perfume formulas of older fragrances depended heavily on tinctures, referring to them as macerations. The most common botanical tinctures were those of Benzoin and Orris. In today's modern botanical and natural perfumes a variety of substances are tinctured, including animal excretions, hair, etc. In botanical perfume the substance is limited to that of plant origin.