Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Something old, new, borrowed and blue


"Something old, 
something new, 
something borrowed, 
something blue, 
and a silver sixpence in her shoe." 

In between working on the new website and filling orders I've been tinkering on several things in the studio. I took this photo this morning from the late night blending session last night. My studio encompasses elements of the old English wedding rhyme doesn't it!

Something old: Vintage tools, apparatus, enamelware, Mysore sandalwood.
Something new: Jasmine tincture, birthday card from Marilyn on pin board.
Something borrowed: Old perfume formula from a book, not seen in the shot above.
Something blue: Enamelware tray, glass bottles and butterfly.
No silver sixpence in my shoe, but how about a silver compact smellin' good?

 I'm wafting vetiver today from making more Terrestre and a bath with some grounding, resinous salts. Last night as I was making Terrestre I began thinking about primary notes of each perfume. Some perfumes the main note is really obvious since its more of a soliflore like Figure 1: Noir is dominated by patchouli and Figure 10: Blanc by Vanilla, but, others its harder to pin down one note. For example, Terrestre could be placed in the vetiver category, yet there are so many other notes in there working in harmony that I find the Vetiver term a bit restrictive.

Things I've been working on in the studio, which are not secrets:

Chocolate perfumes
Terrestre Solid
Impromptu
Aumbre EdP
Page 47 EdP
Aromatherapy related: Body Butter, version 2 / Bath Salts.

I'm waiting for the right auspicious moment to place some of them in the shop, possibly debut them in the new shop!

Friday, September 20, 2013

The fog brought with it a fictional character


 It's cloudy with a cool breeze here in the woodland today, opposite of the bright sun and above 100 degree temps of last Friday. As I gathered the jasmine blossoms this morning I kept thinking of the boy with aquamarine eyes whose names are as endless as the sea. Iam speaking of a fictional character in a young adult book called Charlie Bone and the Beast. This character calls himself Dagbert and is able to conjure cold, misty air. The only difference with the fog he creates and the one this morning is that Dagberts smells of the sea, specifically fish where is this mornings air was draped in woodland sage.

Thus, the two main notes of the day seem to be sage and seaweed, both contained within GreenWitch.

Beauty to your Friday.

Thursday, September 19, 2013

Chrysalis



"What the caterpillar calls the end of the world the master calls a butterfly."
~ Richard Bach 


The seasonal shift has arrived once more, although it is not very visible here in the woodland, there is no doubt that she is here. The only obvious sign is a subtle golden coloration to the light and some dry leaves on trees like the native Sycamores.

Generally here in the Los Angeles area, especially on the Northern side of the Santa Monica Mountains, we may experience the highest temperatures of the summer now. Although it's been cooler the last few days, giving a nice impression of Autumn, record heat could invade at any moment, thus I don't want to get too attach to an illusion.

Speaking of attachment, change and weather, a tempest of sorts has descended on Roxana Illuminated Perfume. As of today the hatches are being battened down as we begin our journey into a chrysalis phase to emerge as a butterfly on January 1st, 2014.  At this point you are all probably thinking, what the heck is she talking about?

As many of you know Roxana Illuminated Perfume has been homegrown very organically with no rush or pressure. Over the last year I've longed to evolve the business so that we could breath some of that higher altitude, pristine air of success. Since funds have been limited I wasn't quite sure how to climb those rocky peaks.

After quite a bit of research, discussions and calculations I've realized that my work, particularly the solid perfumes, are way underpriced. For example a solid perfume mini compact which I sell for $30. in my shop should actually be priced at $119. I had already sensed that my work was underpriced and that in order to move into retail venues that pricing would need to be adjusted.

Thus, dear readers and valued patrons, please note that pricing will slowly be shifting with the final mutation occurring on the 1st of the year. I am not clear yet and how this will look. My intention is to retain the depth, quality and integrity of my work and create new items in the older price range. I hold a very clear intention as to continue working with very high grade plant materials and not compromising on the vision or the skilled handwork. The biggest dramatic change, as mentioned will be that the pricing will reflect all the time, value and costs that go into each item. Along with these shifts I'm intending to move into a space separate from the house so that I can have more room to grow and expand the line.



"Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee."
~ Muhammad Ali 

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Is botanical perfume for you?


Botanical perfume is a niche market, appealing to those who are seeking a more authentic experience with nature and the vitality of a fragrance made by hand with a palette of botanicals. As mentioned in the post defining botanical perfumery, the word "natural" does not mean what we believe it to mean, especially within the beauty and food industries.

When we purchase a fresh bouquet of flowers, fruits or vegetables at the farmers market, from a local grower using organic methods, we are supporting an individual who has made a conscious choice. Unlike the big flower and food producers in other parts of the world, they are choosing to farm in a manner that supports the environment, even it it means keeping their business small. We are also supporting our local community.

Did you know that most of the flowers at the supermarkets and membership-only warehouse clubs are grown in Ecuador where there are no to little restrictions on the use of pesticides? The flowers are shipped to the US, inspected for insects and then often sprayed at the airport with more pesticides. Thus, next time you put your nose in a store bought flower and take a deep breath, keep this little tidbit of information in mind.

A true botanical perfume will not last for hours on end, although there are some that will last longer than others, this is dependent on skin chemistry and the amount of base notes in the fragrance. A great metaphor for botanical perfume is that fresh bouquet of flowers I mentioned early on in this post. When we purchase fresh flowers we want to bring that vital, fresh nature component into our home. Often it is for the visual aspect, sometimes for the aroma or both. A botanical perfume, like that fresh bouquet is alive, over time it will dwindle. The beauty is temporal. If longevity is important please follow this link to these other posts:
Questions, Answers and GreenWitch
Immortal

My goal is to work in harmony with nature, using authentic botanicals and mimicking the inherent wisdom of mother nature. Thus I use a palette which I has specific rules, for example, I do not use any or ever have, nor advocated the use of, historic animal ingredients such as civet, castoreum, ambergris and deer musk. I do not use isolates, even if they are stated to be natural because in truth, most are not natural and have been developed in a laboratory. I prefer not to use materials that have undergone splicing or from a vendor that honorable. Some vendors sell ingredients labeled incorrectly.

In general, the liquid perfumes last longer than the solids, GreenWitch being the most long lasting of all the fragrances in my line. Blossom and Gracing the Dawn are the most ethereal.



The other component of this work is beauty and art. An intention to illuminate the value of perfumes made in collaboration with nature alongside the history and romance of fragrance. Sometimes this part can be extremely tricky since budgets are so small and manufacturers of containers require high minimums. This is where creativity becomes very useful and which I began using the color coded wax seals. There is tremendous mindfulness and thought put into the concept of each fragrance and how to tell its story. At the moment my husband Greg and I create visuals and LookBooks to facilitate an experience of the fragrance.

Many thanks to those who have been loyal patrons of this work, its is because of you that we are able to continue doing this work and getting the message about our connection to nature to all sentient beings who are ready to hear it.

Monday, September 16, 2013

Movement


I've been creating a new shop that will take credit cards without the need to sign into a member site, this shop will eventually connect to the website and blog. Although this task has been on the to do list since last Autumn, the recent Paypal incident lit a fire to get it down NOW!

The new shop will be an alternative to the Etsy shop and will not accept Paypal. If you are a devotee of Paypal and refuse to use all other currencies than e-mail or snail mail me a list of the products that you desire along with the mailing addy. I will then send you a Paypal invoice.

In the future I amy add Paypal to the new shop, due to their current policies and lack of merchant support its not going to happen now.

As soon as the new shop is somewhat presentable I will post the link here, send out a newsletter, etc. If there is anything special you would like to see in a shop please e-mail those suggestions my way roxana <at> illuminatedperfume.com.


Friday, September 13, 2013

Truth is Singular



As I type this it is stardate 67167 and Vera, the perfume of Ojai and lavender is trending. The word Vera means true, referencing the botanical name for lavender Lavandula vera, true lavender.

Truth is a fascinating topic which appears to take on many guises. As Sonmi 451 in Cloud Atlas states "Truth is singular, its versions are mistruths."


Here is a video of Rachel Parent, a 14 year old girl that, like Sonmi 451 is able to discern truth and mis-truths.

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Pretty in Pinks


Today I poured Lyra solid into an oval compact for a customer in South Africa which transported me into a "pink" mood. It also occurred to me that Lyra is a perfect in between season perfume, due to the balance of warm amber with sweet floral and licorice.


Here is a little assemblage of handmade and vintage beauties inspired by the pink hue of Lyra. Clockwise from top: Lyra Botanical Perfume, Vintage Lace Party DressPink Freshwater Pearls by JarosDesignsEmbroidered Initial Necklace by merriweathercouncilRoses Tea Cup by lofficina and Black flower on Rose Pink Coin Purse by oktak.

Saturday, September 7, 2013

Sonoran Desert to Alpine Forest


Greg was contacted by a friend who lives in Palm Springs to begin a dialogue about a collaborative project which resulted in a little mini vacation for us with a free stay at a spa for a few days. Palm Springs, like Las Vegas, is not at the top of our travel destinations, but who can resist a stay at a luxury spa which included a massage! 

Palm Springs is an enigma to me, no big surprise considering my devotion to the nature and authenticity. There's something irreverent to me about bringing huge amounts of water, electricity,  lawns, chlorine, gambling and non-native, invasive plants to the desert. I don't feel the violation as much in other desert locations like Sante Fe or Taos.

Besides the spa the other highlight was the San Jacinto National Park. Greg insisted that we take the Palm Springs Aerial Tram up to the top of the mountain where the vegetation and temperature due to the micro-climate was dramatically different. I was looking forward to being amongst some authentic greenery but I had no idea what a haven I was about to encounter.

The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is a spectacular feat of engineering. The journey, on a normal day, is a quick breath taking 10 minute ride, covering 2.5 miles from the base Valley Station to the top Mountain Station located at 8,516 feet. As you ascend five different life zones beginning with the Sonoran Desert to an Arctic Alpine wilderness.


When we bought our tickets to take the tram we were told that there was heavy rain up at the top with no signs on what the rest of the day held in store. We choose to venture on up, rolling the dice that the clouds would eventually move on. As the tram begin to climb the to the 8500 foot elevation it would automatically stop occasionally due to lightning. Eventually we arrived at the top where light rain was falling. After a ten minute or so wait the rain began to turn into sprinkles and then disappear. The moment we witnessed the weather shift we immediately headed out of the stuffy lodge to the much anticipated wilderness.


Some of the plants of this Alpine wonderland area include; Artemisia douglasiana, commonly known as Mugwort; Coulter pine or big-cone pine, Pinus coulteri; Cottonwood, Populus fremontii, Juniperus californica, also called desert white cedar; Jeffrey pine, Pinus jeffreyi, also known as black pine; Lupine, Lupinus albifrons; Pinyon pine, Pinus monophylla; Scarlet penstemon; and White fir, Abies concolor.





Many trees had fallen naturally and or been struck by lightning, however, this forest is very healthy.


If you go, I highly recommend the Guided Nature Walk, which I will do upon our return visit to the area.


All photos ©RoxanaVilla.