To Bee Eau de Parfum!

Just in time for swarm season, To Bee as an Eau de Parfum is here! I've been working on this one since 2014, the main challenge was getting the ration of essences to alcohol in perfect balance. Since To Bee is such a rich fragrance, weaved with dark, heavy notes that the orchestration can get tricky—too much alcohol eliminates the deep, reverberating base but too little overpowers the more subtle, ephemeral voices. Added to this very dynamic equation there is the challenge of longevity for a true authentic plant perfume which has no isolates, animal or synthetic materials.

Luckily, Eau de Parfums—by their very nature of being atomized into the air, have a tendency toward good silage and tenacity. Take a look at the To Bee Lookbook we put together in 2013 here.

To Bee Eau de Parfum is available in the petite atomizer bottle and the larger, tall rectangular bottle. The Eau de Parfums will be doubling in price shortly as I get them ready for retail stores. I have not set a date yet, however, thought I'd pass that bit of information onto you now while To Bee is still in stock.

Lyra is back!

Lyra is back in all formats: solid, perfume extrait and the new eau de parfum! The difference between the three is in the base materials and concentration. The solid contains beeswax, jojoba and an infusion where as the extrait and EdP are in 190 proof alcohol. The difference in the concentration of the two liquids is subtle. Since the extrait is meant for "dabbing" and the EdP is for spritzing the fragrance strengths of these two versions will be dependent on individual perception. I have found that the extrait is stronger but more localized, where as since the EdP projects the aromatic molecules onto more surfaces the scent may be experienced

Next up will be Cimbalom, the new edition of the solid is ready but I need to decant the eau de parfum and liquid. I'm also going to be formerly releasing Mellifera and Fleurish soon. I also have the new Gardenia enfleurage which is spectacular. All this, and more, with juggling the shop and new teaching venture...thus please be patient if I lag a little.

Eau de Parfum and other fragrance terminology

Recently I was asked a question based on this one "What is the difference between perfume, parfum extrait and an Eau de Parfum?" I thought I'd address it here at the journal so that in the future I can send peeps to this source.

Perfume is a generic word, the origin comes from the Latin, per “through” and fumus “smoke”, thus “through smoke”. This verbage most likely alludes to the use of gums and resins as incense or herbs strewn over fires to impart a pleasant aroma.

ALCOHOL

Most perfumes are a combination of a base material, like alcohol for example, and fragrance. The alcohol in beverages and perfume is ethanol also called ethyl alcohol. There are many types of ethanol alcohol with a proof varying from 90 to 200. Alcoholic beverages such as beer, wine and spirits begin as raw plant matter (grains, fruits, etc.) that get fermented or distilled. For example if we ferment barley we get beer, where as if we distill barley we get scotch.

Main stream perfume uses "denatured alcohol" as their delivery system of choice. The term "de-natured" means that the alcohol has had several chemical additives such as: methanol, pyridine and methyl violet to make it unfit for drinking.1 This type of alcohol is considered toxic and in my opinion shouldn't even be applied to the skin.

Most natural and botanical perfumers who are creating their own perfumes, not lab created, are using a high proof, pure ethanol. Although one should never make assumptions, after all "natural" can mean many things these days.

FRAGRANCE

The fragrance portion in perfume is what will determine whether it is a perfum, eau de parfum, cologne, toilet water etc. These terms have to due with concentration of fragrance to base material. Unfortunately many "crafters" entering the perfume industry are using the term cologne to mean a mens parfum extrait which has added a new level of confusion to the consumer.

Historically a "Parfum extrait" is from 15% to 30% or more of fragrance to alcohol. All other percentages under 15% are classified as Eau de Parfum, Toilet Waters and Colognes. The reason an extrait will be more expensive than the other formats is because the final product contains a higher percentage of fragrance. A perfume extrait is usually dabbed on, often sold in stopper bottles or flacons. Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilet are pump spray type fragrances that are meant to be atomized onto the skin. Toilet waters, colognes and other formats such as Eau fraiche and splash cologne are yet more terms used to describe lighter versions than a Parfum extrait. In traditional and conventional perfumery water is added to the alcohol and fragrance equation, the amount of H20 varies.

Generally the lighter the concentration the weaker the potency of the fragrance. However, this is not always true...particularly with the fragrances I create. I've been having many of customers inform me that the Eau de Parfums seem to perform better in terms of longevity than the Parfum extraits and the solids. I believe the reason is because when aromatic molecules get sprayed into the air and land, the diffusion of the molecules is over a larger surface and thus evaporate differently. Specifically creating better silage (scent trail).

Fragrances in a cream-like base and oil perfumes will, in general, follow the Parfum extrait model of 15 to 30% or more concentration. In some instances people apply an essential oil full strength (100%) to the skin, so you can see how these are only a general guidelines.

1 Wikipedia

Vespers

The Vespertina Eau de Parfum was filtered yesterday and has infused the Agoura workspace with the most divine and delicious aroma of woods, resin and florals all weaved together. There is approximately eight ounces of this first batch of the 2015 edition.

Greg and I are still hard at work on the LookBook which will debut shortly. As I was compiling imagery and content I came across a few nice reviews worth visiting or re-visiting. The first is this one by Beth published over at Perfume Smelling Things, which features some glorious writing by Ms. Gehring. Here's one by Divina at the Fragrance Bouquet and the third is somewhat hidden thus I am re-posting it here. The piece was written by Trish Vawter and first appeared in Sniffapalooza Magazine in 2009. Keep in mind that these were written based on the liquid and solid versions of the fragrance in its early incarnations. The formula has changed over the years due to the disappearance of many botanicals, but, it still retains the rich incense, sacred wood and floral imprint.

Roxana Villa’s Vespertina : An Illuminated Perfume

These past few months, I have spent a lot of time looking at Roxana Villa’s Illuminated Perfume website, reading her online journal, corresponding with her, and of course, wearing her fragrances. Delving into Ms. Villa’s creative work, and getting to know her has been an inspiration. Her love of nature, art and fragrance all flow organically through each other and so clearly through her, that one cannot help but be touched by her passion. I have had the honor to sample most of her fragrances and I can honestly report that Ms. Villa is an extraordinary perfumer who blends her fragrances with sophistication and a nature lover’s heart. Vespertina is the chosen perfume for review, and is intrinsically linked to the art and music of The Visions of Vespertina.

The Visions of Vespertina was recorded by Greg Spalenka, Ms. Villa’s husband, and Michelle Barnes. This was a ten year project that was first recorded by them and then later picked up for distribution and released in 1998. But it wasn’t until 2007 that Ms. Villa created Vespertina the fragrance, for what she refers to as a “threefold sensorium; music, art and scent”. Both the music and art of The Visions of Vespertina are moody, haunting, and medieval in tone. Not unlike the fragrance.

The citrusy, sparkly, subtly spicy topnotes of Verspertina conjure up an image of a mythical orange blossom wine that would be served during communion in a medieval church. Intoxicating, but reverent.

Uplifting, yet solemn. Apparently orange blossoms are not in Vespertina’s blend, but rather four different essential oils of citrus. But its floral heart emerges quickly, which might explain the suggestion of sweet orange blossom. Thankfully the sweetness is not cloying or overbearing. It is a nectar tempered by a medicinal, boozy twinge. Like heavy drunken buds, hanging from dark branches in the evening’s moonlight.

These images, one of non-compliant nature, and one of a devotional ancient ritual have occurred to me while wearing other Illuminated Perfumes.

It’s as though Ms. Villa is able to tap into the desire to connect with past reverential realms while staying grounded within the beauty of our present, albeit chaotic moments.

The evolution of Vespertina continues to ground its wearer as more of the woods move to the foreground, along with a slightly indolic jasmine. Rose and lotus are listed in the fragrance notes as well, but jasmine has the most depth and presence. As the fragrance ultimately settles into its drydown, very subtle hints of earthy leather can be noticed amidst the floral woodiness. Ms. Villa describes Vespertina as “orange woven with flowers, grounded by earth;” a concise and
entirely accurate depiction. Whether or not one is a seeker of natural perfumes, Vespertina is a compelling, complex citrusy floral, with much to offer all perfume lovers.

Eau de Parfum labels!!

The end point of the long and winding road to the Eau de Parfum labels is finally here! Figure 1: Noir as an EdP has now been listed in the 6 gram and 1 gram sample sizes. Please be aware that there is limited amounts left of this first edition, upcoming editions will be done in larger quantities.

Next in the graphic design journey are a slight re-design of the mini informational cards which will be printed by a new, much more professional establishment.

FRAGments

On Saturday, June 22nd, I have the honor of participating in a brand new Artisan Fragrance show here in Los Angeles titled FRAGments. The event begins at 11am with a moderated discussion followed by a reception and pop-up shop from  12pm-5pm. This unique and eclectic collective will feature a range of perfumers working in several mediums within the gorgeous gallery space of sculptor Clare Graham in Highland Park (Los Angeles).

At this show I will present five items, four are my new Eau de Parfums of Figure 1: Noir, Chaparral, Aumbre and Page 47. The new edition of Blossom Eau de Cologne returns with the start of Summer on the Solstice. Expect to see these appear in the E-shop next week. Older posts about Blossom are here and here with a link to a review by Tom at Perfume Smellin' Things.

Find more information and purchase tickets in advance at the FRAGments website.