Lyra Solid Perfume - 2014 edition

There is a new edition of Lyra in her solid format now in the shops, the new version has a subtle difference that some of you may or may not pick up on. The shift was not intentional but rather has mainly due to some botanicals coming from different sources and variations that occur from year to year with crops and distillations. For example I have an organic Jasmine sambac from a new source and my Jasmin grandiflorum is slightly thinner in consistency than the essence I purchased last year. All my essences are purchased from very high end sellers, I avoid the cheaper essences that are sold to soap and candle makers that also make perfume. I suppose this is due to my background in aromatherapy and the desire to support small farmers.

In looking over Lyras formula to ascertain where exactly the transformation took place I noticed there were also a few subtleties in the gram weights of a few of the ingredients which may have also played a role in the deviation. I've been doubling my formulas lately to keep up with the demand, sometimes when the amounts get increased that will also add a new layer to the fragrance, although for the most part I haven't seen that happen, probably because I work with weight instead of volume.

I am putting the notation 2014 edition on all of the Lyra solid variations from this new batch. There is one round solid compact that is wrapped and ready to be shipped that is from the previous formula here.

To my nose the 2014 edition has a little less of the anise note and more of a floral macaroon quality. I had Greg experience both of them and he perceived the new version as having more of a camphor note. Keep in mind, everyone will perceive a scent differently depending on where they stand with all their personal history and emotions coming into play. I look forward to hearing if you all since a difference and what those differences are. If you place an order and would like a sample of the Lyra 2014 solid sample, let me know in the notes to seller and I will include one for you.

EDITIONS: Rosa

Each time I create the synergy and or chord/accord for my fragrances there may be subtle shifts in the aroma due to the variability of the raw materials. This aspect of handmade, uber niche, botanical perfumery gets even more compounded when multiple chords appear in a fragrance. Sometimes the basic essences in one of my perfumes may stay the same while an essence in one or more chords will shift. These changes are extremely subtle, however, some of you have noticed them which has inspired this post titled "Editions" so that you will have a place to observe which perfume you may have. Keep in mind that the variability is one of the reasons why many perfume companies, both large and small, prefer to use stable and consistent synthetic aroma chemicals in their formulations.

 ROSA Solid February 2013

I just pulled the very latest version of Rosa solid from the "alchmezing closet" where it has been marinating to perfection. Rosa is composed of thirteen individual essences and two chords: a "rose" and a "leather". The leather contains two chords within its structure, the rose contains the elusive and hard to work with Rosa bourbonica. Of the thirteen individual essences two are attars from India and one is a co-distillation of Vetiver with Rose. As mentioned previously the Rosa bourbonica may not be part of future editions since I am out of it. There are a host of other essences in Rosa, including the attars that this may also transpire with.

The reason I am mentioning all this is so that there is a clear understanding why there are subtle aromatic diversities from one synergy to another. If any one of these materials shift then there might be a fluctuation in how the fragrance smells.

What is left of the  Rosa December 2012 edition, as of this moment, is a few samples, two honey pots and one compact. The formula for the February 2013 edition was doubled which produced some unexpected yet slight variations.

ROSA Liquid February 2013

The liquid version of Rosa contains the same essences as the solid, the only difference is that the liquid does not contain the infused plant matter that the solid does.

Waxing and waning

Several perfumes are just about out of stock or completely out. This re-occurring new phenomena is a sign that the formulas need to be made in much larger batches when the materials allow it. I'm going to create a post that lives here toward the top of the journal titled Editions, so that you all know what edition is currently in stock, running low on etc.

Here's the latest as I type this.

GREEN WITCH

GreenWitch in liquid form is completely out, more is in the works and will be back shortly.

IMPROMPTU

In the shop currently there are three vials with 1 gram. I discovered a bigger amber glass vial with 3.75 grams of perfume the other night in the studio, however it may already be spoken for. Keep in mind 1 gram is roughly equivalent to .036oz. There is about 1/4 ounce left of the original formula, although the client that has requested the 3.75 gram vial might take it. If you want to be put on a waiting list for it send me an e-mail at roxana (at) illuminatedperfume (dot) com.
Another edition is currently in the works which will also be available as a solid. I already have the wax for this one which makes things flow much better.

VESPERTINA

There is only 11 grams left of the 1st edition, which contains many precious distillates not currently available. When I had launched Vespertina in August of 2007 the formula contained quite a large amount of essences from when I was working in aromatherapy. Regrettably these essences are no longer on the market. The next edition will shift slightly in its aromatic experience and be aligned with the fragrance of the solid since that one also is being re-constructed.

I thought I was out of the synergy for the solid, however, I am not. I apologize if I created any panic.

The Wild Woodland Rose is back!

"A rose does not preach - it simply spreads its fragrance."

~ Ghandi

Rosa, the perfume created for the wild, woodland rose of California is now back in liquid form! The flacon, the vial with 1 gram of juice and the samples have all been updated in the E-shop.

The reason this perfume was gone for many months was twofold: primarily because some of the precious aromatics were not available to me and secondly Rosa contains many chords and thus a complicated fragrance to make.

 I create fragrances from an artists perspective, not taking into account the possible extinction of raw materials. The challenge with this approach is that the perfume editions will change from one batch to another, even if I make chords to replace missing ingredients, there will undoubtedly be subtle fluctuations.

The February 2013 vintage of Rosa in her liquid form luckily did not shift from the last formula because two materials that were off the market eventually were made available again. I was working on creating chords of the missing materials, when, wahlah they returned.

Despite this rather fortunate turn of events, my amber bottle of the very precious Rosa bourbonica absolute also known as "Edward rose",  which is featured in both Rosa and Vespertina, is just about out. This honeyed, wood, rose essence comes from the dry dessert just outside the holy city of Pushkar in Rajasthan, India where it thrives alongside vetiver, another essence in both Rosa and Vespertina.

Many of the sacred oils that I use that come from India are cultivated and distilled in traditional alchemical vessels. The Rosa bourbonica from the region of Pushkar is prized for the high amount of Damascenone molecules present in the aromatic profile. The aroma is much deeper than other roses, with balsamic incense notes which pairs nicely with complimentary oils like Mysore sandalwood, vetiver and frankincense.

If I am not able to procure more Rosa bourbonica absolute for feature editions of  Rosa and Vespertina than it is possible the aroma of each will have subtle fluctuations. Due to the constantly shifting terrain of botanical raw material I am going to start putting a date on the listing of each item. For example, the date of the new Rosa liquid edition and Vespertina solid is February 2013. At this moment in time I am expecting the next editions will contain very little Rosa bourbonica.

Read about the orchestration of Rosa liquid here at the journal.