Vera

I first experimented with an EDC, eau de Cologne, in November of 2005. I built the fragrance utilizing a tincture of bay leaves and a synergy combining bay laurel essential oil with spices and citrus. It was the first time I had ever added water to a combination of alcohol, essential oils and tinctured material. Referring back to my meticulous note taking I notice it took a few tries to get the whole darn thing working.
The secret lies in the drop by drop approach followed by filtration. The process definitely reminds one of how closely linked to alchemy perfume making is.

In December of 2007 I decided to attempt a more traditional EDC incorporating the classic herb and citrus combination. This is something I had been sketching and pondering for years. The first perfume I ever wore was an Argentine cologne which my mother and grandmother doused me in regularly. It was fabricated by my grandfathers company Quimica Estrella. My cologne experiment didn’t get very far due to other obligations. However three months later, in February 2008, I was contacted by Sandy Messori of Rivendell Aromatics to be the keynote speaker at the Ojai Lavender Festival. I decided to continue my EDC experiments with the intention of creating a fragrance devoted to Lavender specifically for the event. The EDC path took me to the creation of the botanical perfume Vera, named after true Lavender, Lavandula vera. In nomenclature the term "vera" has now been replaced by angustifolia or officinalis referring to the official plant used in medicinals.

Vera began as a traditional eau de Cologne combining citrus with lavender. The fragrance surpassed the simplicity of an EDC with the addition of several base notes and a fully developed heart. I decided to paint an authentic landscape of Ojai with this fragrance and thus tinctured both Lavender and Sage. Both herbals used in the tincture were grown in Ojai. I also utilized essential oils that were distilled in the region by locally grown plants. Upon studying the history of the area I weaved in notes associated with the first natives and the Chumash Indians. The addition of Orange Blossom in the heart was brought in for the orange groves that have become emblematic with the region.

Vera Botanical Perfume
Roxana at the 2007 Ojai Lavender Festival
Rivendell Aromatics
Ojai Lavender Festival
Roxana Illuminated Perfume™

Image of Bayrum bottle at top and Lavender at bottom are old engravings I placed on parchment in Photoshop ©RoxanaVilla.

herb + citrus = EDC

History on eau de Cologne is quite varied and difficult to pin down exactly where the word and formula came from. It appears the term eau de Cologne was coined by French soldiers stationed in the city of Köln, Germany. History tells us the first EDC was a toilet water developed by Jean-Paul Feminis and popularized by the Farina family. However the origins of toilet waters most likely began with Hildegard von Bingen in 1100. A visionary and herbalist, the Abbess of Bingen wrote several treaties on flora and fauna, created musical plays, and is credited as the originator of lavender water. Both “Carmelite water” and “Hungary water”, thought to have been developed by nuns and monks in Europe during the 1200’s, are the precursors to eau de Cologne.

A traditional eau de Cologne combines citrus with herb. A modern botanical rendition consists of citrus essences such as: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Petitgrain and Neroli with herbals Lavender, Rosemary and Thyme. Occasionally a resin, such as Benzoin of Siam, is added as a fixative. The original Carmelite water was comprised of the herbs Melissa and Angelica, where as Hungary water featured Rosemary. Both these formulas were considered cure alls for a variety of ailments deemed miracle waters, Aqua Mirabillis. Later they became much more complex and eventually morphed into the classic we know as eau de Cologne with a refreshing melding of citrus with herb. The traditional eau de Cologne is not meant as a perfume but as a fresh spritzer for the mental and physical body.

The famous fragrance 4711, is a descendant of the original Farina family eau de Cologne, (German: Kölnisch Wasser). A copy of the Farina version was created by Wilhelm Muhlens and later established as 4711 by the grandson Ferdinand Mulhens. The number 4711, pronounced forty seven eleven, is a street address in Germany. The popular brand has passed many hands over the years and is now in possession of the Farina family.

4711 was one of my standard fragrances before I discovered essential oils. A simple eau de Cologne is easy to make and provides a lovely refreshing quality as we move into the warmer months. Below is a basic formula. I encourage you to experiment with different essences and the proportion of citrus to herb. I’ve seen one formula that utilizes spearmint as the herbal component and lemongrass as the citrus. If you choose to use lemongrass keep in mind that it has a very strong odor and should be used in small increments. Lemongrass is one of those genie in the bottles whose scent can multiply over time. Utilizing aromatherapy knowledge a calming synergy would include Lavender and perhaps a touch of Chamomile with Bergamot and Mandarin. A stimulating synergy might include Rosemary, Basil and or Peppermint in combination with Lemon and Lemon Verbena. The possibilities are endless, follow you nose.

INGREDIENTS

Essential oil Synergy (see below)
7 drops distilled water or hydrosol
90 mls Alcohol: Use perfumers alcohol. Vodka, rum, or brandy can be used if perfumers alcohol is not an option.

Essential Oil Synergy
25 drops Bergamot essential oil
15 drops Lemon essential oil
4 drops Neroli essential oil
4 drops Rosemary essential oil
1 drop Thyme essential oil
1 drop Benzoin essential oil

1. Combine essential oils together into a glass bottle with a tight fitting lid. Allow to meld or move on to to step two.
2. Add essential oils to your alcohol, allow to meld or move on to to step three.
3. Add water drop by drop to the blend and allow to set in a cool, dark space with lid tightly secured for at least a few days, a month to a week is best.
4. Decant or filter into a colored glass atomizer.
5. Spritz as needed.

SUPPLIERS

Essential Oils:
Floracopeia
Eden Botanicals
Sunrose


Bottles:
Sunburst Bottle Company

Alcohol:
Remet Corporation (562) 921-0911 / (714) 739-0171

Images are old engravings which I have scanned, cleaned up and placed on parchment paper utilizing Photoshop, each is ©Roxana Villa.

References:

Kelville, Kathy, Green, Mindy "Aromatherapy: Complete Guide to the Healing Art", 1995, The Crossing Press

Williams, David, "Perfumes of Yesterday", 2004, Michelle Press

Pumpkin

Who would have thought that pumpkin pancakes would work in perfect combination with lentils. This morning I made pumpkin pancakes for the family. (A few of them for Eve and I had chocolate chips.) Greg decided we needed more protein, thus the lentils came into the picture. It makes perfect sense actually, Indian food is often served with naan, in our case the pumpkin pancakes laced with nutmeg and cinnamon played the role of the bread.

While I was adding the spices and vanilla to the pumpkin batter I remembered the 1996 World of Aromatherapy Conference. I attended this gala affair in San Francisco a few years after becoming conscious of essential oils and aromatherapy. The keynote speaker was Dr. Alan Hirsch, M.D discussing his research findings on the affect of certain aromatics on mens libido. His research concluded that the odor of pumpkin pie and lavender stimulated the male species. It seems to me that more specifically it is the combination of spices, vanilla and memory associations triggering the response. After all, in aromatherapy both spices and vanilla are considered aphrodisiacs. However, as Jeanne Rose says “Scent is in the nose of the beholder.”

The first World of Aromatherapy Conference and Trade Show was organized by Ms. Rose, it was both invigorating and classy. The three day event took place at the Palace Hotel in the heart of San Francisco. During the conference I purchased the book The World of Aromatherapy, an anthology featuring many of the women involved with NAHA, the National Association of Holistic Aromatherapy. The book contains an article by Christine Malcolm, a pioneer of Natural and Botanical Perfume. She was trained as a commercial perfumer and thus has an orientation on both realms. In her article she states, “Using a natural perfume reflects the way in which we honor ourselves by honoring the Earth.”

We don’t, as of yet, have an essential oil of pumpkin. I have seen spinach essential oil on the market though, so...you never know. In the meantime, nutmeg, cinnamon and other related spices will convey that pumpkin pie aromatic profile.

Dr. Alan Hirsch, M.D
NAHA
Jeanne Rose

Illuminated Perfume™

Images at top and bottom are old engravings which I have scanned, cleaned up and placed on parchment paper utilizing Photoshop, both are ©Roxana Villa