Introducing Fleurish

Fleurish, a play on the french word fleur for flower and flourish a design embellishment used in calligraphy, is a luxurious jasmine solifleur with abundant notes of the indolic heady white floral laced with honey.

The fragrance was initially one of the trials for Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin, which some of you may have received as a sample last year. Fleurish is an extremely fresh and velvety floral with a duration of at least six hours with a intoxicating jasmine threaded through the top, middle and base of the fragrance. The formula not only contains three types of jasmines but also a bit of the Jasmine sambac tincture/infusion from my garden. A plethora of other sacred and precious ingredients such as a ten year vintage of Mysore sandalwood are intricately stitched like precious gem stones inlaid in a golden ring. As with all my perfumes this has been constructed using ONLY high end botanicals, absolutely no animal ingredients or isolates are included.

Fleurish is one of the items offered in the upcoming Fan Funding Event, and thus for a time being will only be available through that venue. It will be available for sniffing at the upcoming celebration of the new space on November 15th.

Detailing

They say that the beauty is in the details and patience is golden. These are two wisdoms I have been reminding myself of the last week as I continue to work on debuting the chocolates along with a little project Greg and I have been working on and the new edition of Rosa liquid.

Rosa liquid came together without a hitch, more on that soon, in the meantime expect her to arrive in the shop tomorrow with the imprint of Venus day.

The project Greg and I have been working on has the potential of debuting in the morrow as well, although I can't say for sure since this is a colloboration and isn't completely dependent on my efforts or intentions.

The chocolates, sigh, are a mysterious, ever evolving story with has made me think of Coyote, the trickster. I wrote about Coyote here at the journal back on September 18, 2008. At the time I was considering creating a Coyote perfume, regrettably another natural perfume did this recently...but I degress, that's another story about cats who copy and another perfume in the works.

I have been working with several formulas for integrating the scent of chocolate into the solids. The formula made in November works well with the synergy of Blanc, but does not last very long. Thus I added more of the synergy to get more fixation of the scent, the challenge with that is that it obliterates the scent of the chocolate. Sigh. Thus several tasks and adventures later I have several options and will make a final decision by Monday.

In the meantime I have some beautiful synergies based on the first edition of the chocolates from 2010. These will be available without the chocolate component like Blanc and art of the Soul Flower (soilfore) series.

Ready are Figure 1: Noir and Figure 5: Bois. In the works are Figure 7: Pétales, Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin, Figure 2: Cerise is now more fruity than cherry, thus the name may change. Figure 4: L'Orangerie and Figure 9: Fleurs de Orange are melding into one fragrance. I also have a few new ones to add. Figure 11: Chêne is going to have a new name since I already have an oak perfume, the synergy will be similar to the original Figure 11: Chêne with subtle alterations.

In the meantime I leave you with this and suggest having a bite an exquisite piece artisan chocolate.

"The 12-step chocoholics program: Never be more than 12 steps away from chocolate!" 

- Terry Moore

Chiaroscuro Solid October 2012

 The skyrocketing sales of solid, natural perfume during the last month has created a few shifts in the studio. One of them is creating much larger batches of each synergy.

During the deluge of the feature the I sat down to make more of the synergies, one was for Chiaroscuro solid. I multiplied the formula by four and proceeded to work. Reports from those who have received the newest version say that the spice note is more prominent and the jasmine note less. Since the formula hasn't changed this makes me think that the multiplication by four has intensified the spice note. I have made a note of this for the next time I sit down to create the Chiaroscuro and any solid synergy I recreate in a significantly larger batch.

In the meantime, I am making a Jasmine soliflore for those who would like a stranger jasmine note added to Chiaroscuro...or any illuminated perfume. You all know how much I adore jasmine. As mentioned here at the journal in the post As Noted: Chocolate 1 and 2, soliflore, means one flower in French,  it is a term used to describe a composed perfume dominated by one single flower, such as Gardenia or Jasmine.

The first soliflores I created were the chocolates, which by the way I am reworking and intend to release shortly. Blanc, the vanilla soliflore, came out of the chocolate solid perfume series. As part of that series there was a jasmine chocolate titled Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin, that is what the new Jasmine soliflore will be based on.

Part of the reason I am able to move forward so swiftly with the Jasmin soliflore is because while ordering more wax last week I came across a gorgeous purple that will work divinely as the seal for the fragrance. Finding the thread for the pouch may not prove as easy, thus, not sure as of yet of the debut date.

Read more on this related topic here at the journal at these posts:
Mutations
The Fragility of Tactile Materials
As Noted: Chocolate 1 and 2
As Noted

Images: Opening and middle photos are by Rebecca Fishman, Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin photo by Roxana Villa.

A Vanilla Soliflore

I've re-released "Figure 10: Blanc" without the chocolate base. This is a delicious vanilla soliflore, meaning one flower in French, a term used to describe a composed perfume dominated by one single flower, such as Gardenia or Jasmine. Blanc is a botanical fragrance dominated by the scent of vanilla. For the aromatic component I am using the original Blanc accord of essential oils, Co2 extracts and absolutes combined with a vanilla bean infusion I also created.


For the moment I have listed the Honey Pot and the Mini Compact in the E-shop. I also have it available as the oval and round tapestry compact as well as the little sample pot. All of these will be uploaded and listed shortly.

As Noted: Chocolate 1 & 2

In January a list of ingredients and notes was posted here at the journal to explain the distinction between the word "note" in a perfume vs "ingredient". The list also serves those inquiring what is contained within each Illuminated Perfume. The entry is called As Noted and can be located here at this link.

Today's entry is the second part of the original post, illuminating the notes in first and second tier of the Chocolate Solid Natural Perfume series.


Let's begin with the natural base materials:

• Golden Jojoba Seed Oil.
• Organic, unfiltered Beeswax.
• Cocoa Butter.
• Cocoa Powder.
• Theobroma cacao extract from South America.
• Essential Oils, Absolutes, Concretes and C02 extracts primarily from plant matter. The only essences that are not from plants are: Beeswax, Honey, Seashells and Seaweed. I utilize "whole" essences in keeping with the concept of Gaia and Holistic Aromatherapy.
• My own plant infusions.

What I do not use:

• No animal ingredients, nor do I test on animals.
  
• No isolates, as stated above I only use "whole" essence.
• No synthetic fragrances.
• No petrochemicals.
• No parabens.
• No phthalates.
• No artificial colors.

To help broaden knowledge of what botanical perfume, here is a link at this journal outlining some key points: Botanical Perfume: A Comprehensive Definition.


For the aromatic component of each of the Chocolate perfumes I created an accord of essential oils, Co2 extracts and absolutes. A soliflore, meaning one flower in French, is a term used to describe a composed perfume dominated by one single flower, such as Gardenia or Jasmine. These chocolate perfumes are like more a soliflore in that they celebrate one note, but, the main note of chocolate is also combined with other notes such as Rose, Orange, etc.

Roxana Illuminated SOLID Chocolate Perfumes, Tier 1

Figure 1: Noir Deep, dark and mysterious with a strong musk note.

Fragrance family: GOURMAND
Notes: Musk, Chocolate
Main Ingredient: Patchouli

Figure 2: Cerise Succulent cherry weaved with a base of rich chocolate.
Fragrance family: GOURMAND, FRUITY
Notes: Fruit, Chocolate
Main Ingredient: Seabuckthorne

Figure 3: La Forêt A dense conifer forest meets an ocean of chocolate.
Fragrance family: GOURMAND, CONIFER, WOOD
Notes: Fir, Chocolate
Main Ingredient: Spruce

Figure 4: L'Orangerie Mouth watering citrus in a base of rich chocolate.
Fragrance family: GOURMAND, CITRUS
Notes: Orange, Chocolate
Main Ingredient: Orange

Figure 5: Bois de Chocolat Smokey woods and chocolate.
Fragrance family: GOURMAND, WOOD
Notes: Wood, Smoke, Chocolate
Main Ingredients: A variety of Cedarwood and Cypress essences.

Figure 6: Épices Spice, a hint of vanilla and chocolate.
Fragrance family: GOURMAND, SPICE
Notes: Spice, Chocolate and Vanilla
Ingredients include: Coriander, Ginger, Cardamon and Balsam

Praise for the first tier of the Chocolates can be found online here:

Roxana Illuminated SOLID Chocolate Perfumes, Tier 2

The second tier, or phase, of the chocolate perfumes continues with the fusion of cacao with such botanical wonders as Rose, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Vanilla Orchid Bean and Moss.

Figure 7: Pétales The classic combination of Chocolate and Roses.
Fragrance family: GOURMAND, FLORAL
Notes: Rose, Chocolate
Main Ingredient: Indian Rose Edward

Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin Rich heart of Jasmine enveloped by Chocolate.
Fragrance family: GOURMAND, FLORAL
Notes: Jasmin, Chocolate
Main Ingredient: Jasmine Sambac and Grandiflorum

Figure 9: Fleurs de Orange A buzz with Orange blossom flowers and honey.
Fragrance family: GOURMAND, FLORAL, CITRUS
Notes: Orange blossoms, Chocolate
Ingredients include: Orange Blossom Absolute, Neroli and Blood Orange

Figure 10: Blanc A milk chocolate truffle featuring the Vanilla Orchid Bean at center stage.
Fragrance family: GOURMAND, VANILLA
Notes: Vanilla Orchid Bean, Chocolate
Main Ingredient: Vanilla Absolute

Figure 11: Chêne A tribute to the mighty and sacred Oak.
Wood, resin, aloeswood and moss.
Fragrance family: GOURMAND, WOOD
Notes: Wood, Resin, Oud, Moss, Chocolate
Ingredients include: Wood, Oud and Lichen


These creamy artisan delicacies are available in a myriad of forms from clustered samples, individual truffles and a variety of box sets. The best place to access all of these is this direct link to the bounty of chocolate natural perfume confections.

Les Croquers de Chocolat

The first phase of the chocolate feast for the senses has finally arrived! Sensory delights, based on the cacao fruit of South America, are now available in mini sample sizes and truffle box sets.

Revered as a love elixir, among other things, these chocolate creamy unguents feel decadent and luxurious to put on the skin. The chocolate base is completely botanical, made with Scharffen Berger 99% cacao, cocoa butter, organic cocoa powder and theobroma cacao extract from South America.
There is also beeswax, jojoba seed oil, my own infused vital plant materials and botanical fragrance. The aroma of each one varies, in some the chocolate appears as a top note while in others the fragrance of the accord is dominant with the chocolate making an appearance at the base.

Here are some interesting facts about chocolate that relate specifically to the new perfumes:

• Studies show that the aroma of chocolate may increase theta waves in the brain and thus relax you.
• Cocoa butter contains oleic acid, a fat also found in olive oil attributed with raising good cholesterol levels.
• The Aromacology Patch Ltd in the UK have concluded that the smell of chocolate can reduce the craving for the the substance and other sugary treats.
• Chocolate contains protein, riboflavin, iron and minerals.
• The skin is the largest organ of the body is absorbs nutrients.
• A Study as Harvard University shows that men who consume chocolate live longer.

These solid natural perfume treats will make an appearance in sets. The first collection includes:

Figure 1: Noir
Like it's edible counterpart this chocolate is deep, dark and mysterious with a strong musk note.

Figure 2: Cerise
Succulent cherry weaved with a base of rich chocolate.

Figure 3: La Forêt
A dense conifer forest meets an ocean of chocolate.

Figure 4: L'Orangerie
Mouth watering citrus in a base of rich chocolate. Please note this perfume is VERY fleeting.

Figure 5: Bois de Chocolat
Smokey woods and chocolate.

Figure 6: Épices
Spice, a hint of vanilla and chocolate.

For the aromatic component of each of these I created an accord of essential oils, Co2 extracts and absolutes. La Forêt features primarily essences from the conifer family, L'Orangerie from the citrus family, etc. Some of the perfumes are like soliflores with chocolate, one main aromatic note weaved with cacao. Stay tuned for the next series of sets as I release them over the next couple of months. I can't wait to hear which are your favorites.

Find these chocolate olfactory delights here the Illuminated Perfume shop on Etsy.

Layers

“We do not grow absolutely, chronologically. We grow sometimes in one dimension, and not in another; unevenly. We grow partially. We are relative. We are mature in one realm, childish in another. The past, present, and future mingle and pull us backward, forward, or fix us in the present. We are made up of layers, cells, constellations.” ~ Anais Nin

Eve and I are voracious in our appetite for good stories. Sunday evening we decided to check out the new Arclight Movie Theater and see the film Atonement. Our hunger was fulfilled with multiple courses of love, wit, beauty and tragedy.

As I put on sheaths of silk and woolens this morning with an intention of staying warm while blending, I contemplated the importance of layering. Layering in all aspects of life adds complexity and thus creates interest. This is evident in the mastery of the film Atonement as well as the storytelling of the TV series LOST.

When creating botanical perfume we create layers of similar notes, called chords or accords, and then blend those for the final orchestration of the perfume opera. I've created several chords to work with including variations of wood, floral, rose, citrus, leather, spice, green, amber, musk, jasmine, carnation and velvet. Some of these are simple perfumes, soliflores in their own right.

Multiple chords in perfume, are like those wonderful layers in great storytelling, seamlessly blended to create a synergy greater than the sum of its parts.

See how Greg creates his lovely illuminations, including Lotus Fairy,
clicking on the Bouquet button here, at right:

Cheers to the Bards!
www.illuminatedperfume.com

Atonement, the movie
Ian McEuwen
LOST

Image above: One of the many layers used to create the final image Lotus Fairy, by Greg Spalenka. The Bouquet button is an image he created for his website.