Wednesday, October 30, 2013

The Basket

Monday through Friday I pack up perfume and art orders, or if things are really busy,  I make perfume and have an assistant pack up the orders. All the packages, unless they are larger boxes, get put into one of several woven baskets that get carried into the post office.

If I am the one making the post office drop, from there I will often head over to the market and pick up items that we may need that were not obtained at the farmers market on Saturday. This is what occurred today, the market was our local Trader Joes and instead of taking in reusable canvas bags I took the basket. I was only purchasing a few things so it was much more convenient to have my basket instead of using one of the stores or a shopping cart.

The gal at the register commented on how smart I was to use the basket and also that it looked really "chic." She also asked if I had lived in Europe. I answered that I hadn't lived in Europe but that I was from Buenos Aires and often went shopping with my grandmother to all the different food shops: bakery, butcher, cheese, etc.

As I walked back to the car I began to wonder if it was my Argentine background, having been a parent of a child who attended a Waldorf school (baskets are really popular) or was it an aesthetic thing weaved with environmental awareness? Most likely it's all of the above with the Waldorf quotient having the most weight.

I hope each of you is mindful when you shop, its now so easy to be conscious of avoiding plastic and paper, even though they are recyclable.

Photo: Rebecca Fishman

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Swallowtail


While working this morning all of a sudden Greg says..."Hey Rox, come're!" So I go outside and he tells me a story of how he was standing next to the little potted lemon tree and heard a small chewing sound. Then he pointed out these strange looking blobs on the branches of the lemon tree. I exclaimed "Oh, wow, is that a cocoon?" He says no, that it is some sort of caterpillar and he points out several others on the tree.


I look closer and must admit it was pretty tough to tell they were caterpillars, but then I started thinking, over years and years of evolution they have probably developed this look so they wouldn't get eaten by the birds.

Later I found out that these ugly, bird dropping-like things are called Orange Dog Caterpillars and that they will turn into Giant Yellow Swallowtails! Not quite sure how long it will be before the cocoon and butterfly appear, stay tuned.

"What the caterpillar calls the end of the world, the Master calls a butterfly"
-Richard Bach

Terrific symbol for this transformative time of year, although generally I associate of butterflies with Spring not Autumn.

Opening image Commutio by Greg Spalenka, photo Roxana Villa.

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Gang of Four



The four grammers, as in four grams by weight of pure fume extrait, are inching their way into the shop and getting gobbled up. Clearly I'm going to be doubling my formulas. Next step for these little rectangulars will be to find better packaging than the pillow boxes. Also, I'm pondering how to make them look different from every other niche perfumer thats using them.


So far in the E-shop:
Figure 1: Noir
Chaparral
Vera

More arriving soon, if there is something you want in this size please contact me either via e-mail (roxana at illuminatedperfume.com) or the Etsy convo tool.


Monday, October 21, 2013

Cimbalom Solid, The 2013 Edition


The last drops of the Cimbalom synergy were used recently for a round solid perfume tin. Thus, more was made from scratch. Cimbalom is a rich, floriental featuring Jasmin sambac, also known as Pikake in Hawaii.

During the making of the synergy I used a different Vanilla than the last time I had made this synergy back in 2010. I mention this because I am very keen that those of you with really great noses are aware of this tiny shift. There will also be a slight aroma fluctuations because the synergy of the other was sitting and marinating for two years before it was all used up where as this one is fresh.

This rendition, although the formula was followed may appear to have more green, fresh, floral notes because the deep balsamics have yet to anchor the jasmines. I say jasmines, plural, because there are several types of jasmine in this rich fragrance. In one month, one year and two years from now this synergy will shift, I guarantee it. This is part of the beauty of authentic natural, botanical perfume, like fresh food and bouquets of flowers, it is a living art form.


Speaking of jasmine and living art forms, the sambac plants are still blooming and thus the daily harvesting and addition to the tincture keeps on going.

I found a honey pot of the 2012 edition of Cimbalom the other day, thus I've listed it in the E-shop here. I also put the last of the Cimbalom pink pots sample here.


Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin is returning as the soliflore tribute to Jasmine, this fragrance is part of the collection of natural perfume narratives that Figure 1: Noir began. Most of the original chocolates of the figure series will return. Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin will be ready fairly soon. I will offer it to those of you who ask, but you will not see it formerly launched until the Springtime.

Saturday, October 19, 2013

Natural History: Ornithology


Today we took a little break from our work and headed a half hour north for an open house at The Western Foundation of Vertebrate Zoology, also known as the Camarillo Bird Museum. As we walked toward the building a group had assembled to see and hear details about a few live birds of prey, one was a cute little screech owl and a falcon named Bob. These feathery friends were visiting from the nearby Ojai Raptor Center.

 

After listening to many fascinating facts and stories about the birds we walked to the entrance of the museum which was surrounded by California native plants including this fairy duster, a favorite of honey bees.


The institution is a non-profit with the intention "to obtain, protect, and manage ornithological collections." The facility is located in Camarillo, CA, in a 22,000 square-foot building open to researchers and members of the public by appointment. The vast collection is "composed of more than 225,000 sets of bird eggs representing approximately 4,000 species, more than 20,000 nests, more than 56,000 bird study skins, and a library of over 7,000 books and monographs on birds and natural history. The library also houses more than 400 bird and natural history journal serials, and a large collection of the field notes of collectors and scientists."


Greg and I found ourselves in the vast warehouse space of aviary wonders due to a tweet by the Los Angeles Times. One side of the museum was painted with a large sky mural which provides the perfect back drop for the ornithological collection. Rows and rows of cabinets line the interior of the main warehouse space with taxidermied birds, eggs of all sizes, nests and a few mummies displayed on top of the cases.


In most cases the different types of birds were displayed along with their nests and eggs. Greg was fascinated with the nest of ravens that was lined with what looked like cotton, fabric, string and other soft materials making it look really snuggly.


Japanese artist Mamoru Suzuki was there for the special day conducting demonstrations of museum specimen preparation techniques and a showcase of the beautiful images he creates from observing nature.

 

The founder of the museum and research institute is Ed N. Harrison, pictured here with his cabinet of curiosities.


Image above of Ed N. Harrison taken from Museum website. All other photographs ©Roxana Villa.

Thursday, October 17, 2013

The Grand Budapest Hotel

Wes Anderson has done it again! Can't wait.

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Saturday, October 12, 2013

Color & Scent


 Lately I've been working on perfume related things like the making and decanting of liquid and solid perfumes / packing up orders during the day and then working on the website at night into the wee hours. During the ebb and flow of the week I'll also research bottles and packaging, work on new formulas, place orders, ponder imagery, etc.


The jasmine are starting to wane but there are still periods of bloom time as we shift into color temps and violet season.

This week Martha came by with thread colors for various upcoming perfumes. The process of selecting a color for a perfume can be so darn tricky, firstly because of the limited palette I've chosen to use as a rough guideline, pictured below.


Secondly because finding the wax to match the thread or vice versa can be a daunting task. Then there is the illumination that may already exist or not and last but not least is the basic structure already created for the colors and scent families, although not perfect.
  • GREEN: Green scents:  Q, Sierra, GreenWitch, Hedera helix, Chaparral
  • GOLDEN: Honey, Spice: To Bee, Impromptu, Mellifera, Honey
  • BLACK, UMBER to COOPER: Earthy: Fig 1:Noir, Aumbre, Terrestre
  • BROWN: Chocolate
  • IVORY: Vanilla: Fig. 10 Blanc, Page 47
  • RED to PURPLE: Florals: Aurora, Lyra, Vespertina, Cimbalom, Gracing the Dawn, Vera and the upcoming Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin

For Impromptu we begin with the illumination. I chose to go with a light golden hue within the colors of the image. Next will be finding the wax, which I might have custom made.


For the upcoming Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin I had a Mulberry colored wax in mind that Martha was able to find the thread for immediately. Next will be Greg providing the illumination.

For Impromptu and Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin I'll be creating the little mini cards and searching for
an iconic image for both of those.

For Figure 10: Blanc I already knew that the color was going to shift to an ivory shade. The color of the thread was found in tandem with the wax. Next will be a slight redesign of get the little mini cards and having those printed up.

Mellifera is still being worked on but we are contemplating colors, same with the honey chord which will become a perfume at some point, although the name has yet to be determined, we're just going with Honey for now.

The pale pink thread you see up there to the left of Fig.8 might replace the current color we are using for Lyra since it fits my palette a bit better...or it might be another perfume.

There are two wood fragrances that are part of the Figure series, those might actually break the color pattern. For another perfume in the works we are considering a silver hue.

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Bits and Pieces


It's Tuesday, a MARS ruled day, almost Wednesday which is governed by MERCURY. Here's a fun little review that came in while I was watching a documentary about the City of Alexandria:

"WELL NOW. Oookay. Here's the thing, darlings. these Samples? Impossibly elegant. Let me explain. Firstly, they came in a velvet pouch. I don't mean some cheap plastic velvet..I mean the yummy stuff. The tiny containers have a small amount in each, but plenty to wear multiple times, and that's a GOOD dang thing...because the fragrances are gorgeous...and I write this as a person who cant handle cloying stuff or fake stuff without getting a wicked headache. Each little top is stamped with a bee, and then you get color coded cards to match the tiny box to the scent...gorgeous small scale business cards and such in a small envelope sealed in wax..oh, and by the way..it gets to you FAST. I will be back for full sizes shortly...and I am a BIG new fan. (whew...biggest damn review I have ever left..)"



and on Friday, I received this note:

Part 1
"The 20 something year old taking my lunch order got so excited about the smell of Noir liquid that he had to ask me what it was and also got my order wrong. :-) He loves patchouli ...

Part 2
"It just happened again. This time the head of our IT department, also male but mid forties."
Conclusion and suggestion by the wearer: "Drives men to distraction!"

That little bottle of Figure 1: Noir, pictured above, holds 4 grams of pure fume by weight. All the perfumes are available in this size but not all of them currently have the fancy labels. Inching along.

Monday, October 7, 2013

Movie Monday: Birders: The Central Park Effect

Highly, highly recommend this! Dweebs and natural lovers unite!


Here's the link to the National Audubon Society where you can find a link to one near you. According to Craig Howie, Los Angeles Times... "Southern California is one of the best places in the world to watch birds, from its coastal habitats to its wetlands, lakes, reservoirs and rivers. Here are some of our favorite spots that are also popular among birding enthusiasts and clubs. Join us and our feathered friends on the Pacific Flyway!"


In August we went to Malibu Colony Beach, originally called "Malibu Beach Motion Picture Colony" where they have been restoring the lagoon. The walk down to the beach from Pacific Coast Highway has been landscaped with native plants. Once at the beach the lagoon is a haven for wildlife, specifically birds.

Friday, October 4, 2013

AUMBRE news


Aumbre is now available in the Eau de Parfum format. While I was decanting the potion my friend Wendel walked into the studio and let loose a torrent of descriptive words including, but, not limited to "Big Sur, crunchy leaves, ocean air, camp fire.." Then on Monday another girlfriend was here who upon inhaling the solid exclaimed "This clearly is something everyone should have."


The conclusion based on the above impressions and the warm, smokey, incense notes of this amber fragrance is that its perfect for Autumn. To my nose there is a apple/fruit within the amber that weaves in and out of the spice, incense and smoke that feels very Autumnal.


Aumbre was made for my husband Greg years ago when I first started creating perfume blends, I expanded it when I was searching for a warm, amber note for To Bee. Aumbre is both an accord/chord and a stand alone perfume in the oriental fragrance family. Within the tribe of fragrances I offer its more of a amber soliflore than a complex work like GreenWitch with her five accords/chords.

Due to the amount of heavy base notes Aumbre has great longevity which carries through into the EdP (Eau de Parfum). I look forward to hearing from those who have experienced the EdP so I can relay your impressions of the notes and longevity.

Thursday, October 3, 2013

Feature on The Green Product Junkie


Hey team, Katie of The Green Product Junkie has written a very mindful post about Roxana Illuminated Perfume with her thoughts on a few of her favorites natural, botanical fragrances from the line.

Please head over and chime in if you feel inspired, it's important to give some love to those thoughtful bloggers who so graciously write reviews. I'm sure she and her audience would love to hear your about your favorite fumes.


Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Bee references in Shakespeare


1) "O, how shall summer's honey breath hold out..." (Sonnet 64)



2) "We bring it to the hive and, like the bees,
"Are murdered for our pains." (Henry IV)

3) "The sweetest honey is loathsome in its own deliciousness." (Romeo and Juliet)

4)"...For honesty coupled to beauty is to have honey a sauce to sugar.." (As You Like It)

5) "Sweet honey and sweet notes together fail." (Troilus and Cressida)

6) "The sweetest honey is loathsome in its own deliciousness." (Romeo and Juliet)

7) "Obedience: for so work the honey-bees..." (Henry V)


8) "'Tis seldom when the bee doth leave her comb. In the dead carrion." (Henry VI)

9) "Thus we may gather honey from the weed,
"And make a moral of the devil himself." (Henry V)



10) "Enjoy the honey-heavy dew of slumber." (Julius Caesar)

11) "For you have stol'n their buzzing, Antony,
"And very wisely threat before you sting." (Julius Caesar)

12) "When he did frown, O, had she then gave over,
Such nectar from his lips she had not suck´d." (Venus and Adonis)

13) "Where the bee sucks, there suck I..." ("The Tempest")

14) "We bring it to the hive and, like the bees,
"Are murdered for our pains." (Henry IV)




15) "The commons, like an angry hive of bees
"That want their leader, scatter up and down
"And care not who they sting in his revenge." (Henry VI)

16) "Full merrily the humble-bee doth sing,
"Till he hath lost his honey and his sting." (Troilus and Cressida)

Images ©RoxanaVilla