Impending Darkness

The night and day of equal length beckons us in the Northern hemisphere to prepare for the shadow, the season of the dark and cooler temperatures. Called by many names including Mabon, Autumnal Equinox and Meán Fómhair, the pagan holy day of the harvest reminds us to be grateful, assess where we are at and begin our inward journey.

The opening illustration by Gustave Doré depicts Archangel Michael casting out the arrogant angels. During this season we also celebrate Michelmas in honor of St. Michael who defeats Lucifer and St. George who tames the dragon, both of these beinging symbols of conquering our shadow side.

The emblem of the five pointed star, also known as the pentagram, is often used to deepen into this season. If we cut in apple in half through the horizontally we will see the hidden star contained within. This image repeats within our body and in nature, another reminder of our perfect one-ness with the Earth.

Today I poured a Cimbalom round tin for a customer and was reminded of the apple note contained within the fragrance. Then, later in the day, I found myself contemplating Greg's Enchantment print hanging in the hallway of our little woodland cottage. Thus, my fragrance this evening is the heavy jasmine inspired floriental Cimbalom, auspiciously heady pink jasmine flowers have five petals.

Opening image: Archangel Michael casts out the arrogant angels. Illustration by Gustave Doré, 1866.

Cimbalom Solid, The 2013 Edition

The last drops of the Cimbalom synergy were used recently for a round solid perfume tin. Thus, more was made from scratch. Cimbalom is a rich, floriental featuring Jasmin sambac, also known as Pikake in Hawaii.

During the making of the synergy I used a different Vanilla than the last time I had made this synergy back in 2010. I mention this because I am very keen that those of you with really great noses are aware of this tiny shift. There will also be a slight aroma fluctuations because the synergy of the other was sitting and marinating for two years before it was all used up where as this one is fresh.

This rendition, although the formula was followed may appear to have more green, fresh, floral notes because the deep balsamics have yet to anchor the jasmines. I say jasmines, plural, because there are several types of jasmine in this rich fragrance. In one month, one year and two years from now this synergy will shift, I guarantee it. This is part of the beauty of authentic natural, botanical perfume, like fresh food and bouquets of flowers, it is a living art form.

Speaking of jasmine and living art forms, the sambac plants are still blooming and thus the daily harvesting and addition to the tincture keeps on going.

I found a honey pot of the 2012 edition of Cimbalom the other day, thus I've listed it in the E-shop here. I also put the last of the Cimbalom pink pots sample here.

Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin is returning as the soliflore tribute to Jasmine, this fragrance is part of the collection of natural perfume narratives that Figure 1: Noir began. Most of the original chocolates of the figure series will return. Figure 8: Coeur de Jasmin will be ready fairly soon. I will offer it to those of you who ask, but you will not see it formerly launched until the Springtime.

Mutations

One of the biggest challenges for the natural perfumer who works with a restricted palette of botanical raw materials, is that they are rare aromatic gems that every once in awhile disappear off the market. I stepped into the world of aromatherapy in the mid 1990's when many essences were much easier to purchase and substantially less expensive.

Over the last fifteen years some of my suppliers have stopped carrying specific essences, others come and go like the tide. In some cases I must order large amounts if I intend to get more.

My way around all this chaos is to reconstruct the missing essence as an accord, then if the essence becomes available again I can replace it in a formula. I did this last month with GreenWitch and most recently with Cimbalom. Thus, if you notice subtle differences this is the reason.

The jasmine sambac flowers have pretty much ended their flowering season here in the woodland, next up is the violets. Thus, expect to start seeing lots of pictures of deliciously, aromatic violets.

You say it's your birthday It's my birthday too, yeah!

On this day back in the early sixties, I was born in the capital of Argentina, the port city of Buenos Aires. It was a Monday, Marilyn Monroe had died of a supposed overdose a week prior and on that day Ringo Starr stepped in as drummer for the Beatles.

As I've done twice in past years a celebratory perfume is in the works, following the same path as Cimbalom (originally titled BB, for Birthday Balm) and Page 47. Since the jasmine sambac is blooming and happens to be in both prior fragrances I thought I'd follow suit and use an old formula which was never fully developed.

Back on August 16, 1997 I helped organize and attended a class facilitated by John Steele. We made two blends that day, one was an aromatherapy relaxing blend while the other a perfume oil. For the perfume John had us choose our essences from his stash to create a class floral blend with aphrodisiac and relaxing properties. Keep in mind this was an "aromatherapy" workshop.

I chose to work with Jasmine, Patchouli, Spikenard, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Nutmeg, Blood Orange, Mandarin and Gingergrass. The resulting blend was very pretty, however, I have been wanting to re-work it for years. Thus, fourteen years later today, I am back at the drawing board with these same raw materials and a much bigger palette to widen the scoop.


As a gift from me to you I will share a few samples of this first formula. To enter the giveaway please leave a comment telling me what main essences you would like to see included in this new fragrance or which you would choose for a celebratory birthday perfume. If you have any suggestions for a name please chime in, thank you!

Oh...and please remember you have a once a year birthday discount here.

Narcotic and Enchanting

It's that time of year again when I discover a bounty of the sweetly scented flowers strewn along the concrete just under where the row of pots sit. The blossoms are of the jasmine sambac plants blooming in the big clay pots of our front porch. Little, waxy flowers burst open during evening perfuming the air with an enchanting, narcotic aroma, occasionally melding with the native sage.

There are three jasmines I use for creating natural perfume: Jasmin grandiflorum, Jasmin auriculatum and Jasmin sambac. Each one is beautiful and narcotic, adding different shades to a perfume. My introduction to Jasmin sambac took place in August 1997 (?). I had asked my friend and colleague John Steele if I could help organize a class led by him here in Los Angeles.

The class was orchestrated as a two day workshop in Malibu overlooking the ocean and titled "The transformational use of fragrance in Ancient Egypt and Amazonian Shamanism." This was right up my alley at the time as I was immersed in aromatherapy studies and an initiate with a Celtic shaman. It was while inhaling several transporting flower absolutes that I fell hard for jasmin sambac, as well as several other psychoactive flower essences.

On day two of the workshop we created a blend where I used the jasmin sambac as the main note. I've decided to find that formula and revisit it, perhaps with a new birthday perfume in line with Cimbalom and Page 47. Rather synchronistically the perfume created in Johns class was on my actual birthday way back then.


Since the jasmine flowers are blooming it means time to take photos and make more of the tincture and infusion. Thus, each day I start off with a few photos and then carefully placing the flowers into organic grape and organic jojoba oil. Once the flowers are spent I remove them, refreshing daily.


Photos ©RoxanaVilla

Cimbalom Winner

It's Friday and the weather here in southern California is sunny and warm, finally! On this day, associated with the Goddess of love and beauty, I have used the Randomizer to select a winner of the Cimbalom giveaway.

The winner mentioned she would like to try Chaparral, her name is Margaret. Congratulations to Margaret who has won a Cimbalom mini solid sample and many thanks to everyone who stopped by to enter.

Over at Perfume Smellin' Things stay tuned on Sunday when Beth will be revealing the winner of her tangent giveaway for a Cimbalom liquid and solid sample.

Image: Photo of jasmine sambac flowers from my garden, these were used for a tincture featured in Cimbalom liquid perfume.

Cimbalom Natural Perfume Review and Giveaway

From Cleveland with love, Beth has written a terrific review of Cimbalom weaved in with her special flair for flavor and great story telling. Please find your way over to Perfume Smellin' Things for a fabulous "Foodie Sunday" edition with an opportunity to win a vial and pink pot of Cimbalom natural and botanical perfume. I'll join in with a sample pink pot of Cimbalom solid natural perfume here to one lucky winner. This giveaway opportunity ends at 10pm PST on Wednesday, March 30th

To qualify to win one, please....

Begin by visiting the IlluminatedPerfume shop on Etsy and sharing in your comment what item you most crave. You must include your first name -or- etsy username AND email address with each entry or it will not be included.

For additional entries you can do any or all of the following, please leave a separate comment for each entry.

• 1 entry per day of the contest: Twitter this message: RT @RoxanaVilla is hosting a giveaway of Cimbalom! Visit http://bit.ly/gvLuBE for a chance to win
• 2 entries (total) - Blog about this giveaway, leaving the URL to the post in comments (1 blog per entrant, please)
• 1 entry: Be or become a follower at RoxanaVilla on Twitter
• 1 entry: Be or become a fan of IlluminatedPerfume on Facebook
• 1 entry: Be or become a follower of this journal: IlluminatedPerfume

More fine print, learned along the way 1. If we cannot contact you we will give your prize away to someone else. 2. Depending how many entries are received I determine how the winner shall be chosen. Normally each entry is assigned a card from several decks here at the house, I then shuffle all the cards and have someone handy (like my daughter) choose a card for the winner and a runner up. 4. Please don't make up any new guidelines, what is outlined above is what we follow. Good Luck everyone!!

Jasmine sambac flower photo ©Roxana Villa, please have some integrity and respect copyright laws.

Cimbalom: Her Story

“The barge she sat in, like a burnish’d throne,
Burn’d on the water: the poop was beaten gold;
Purple the sails, and so perfumed that
The winds were love-sick with them; the oars were silver,
Which to the tune of flutes kept stroke, and made
The water which they beat to follow faster,
As amorous of their strokes. For her own person,
It beggar’d all description.”

From Antony & Cleopatra by Shakespeare

Cimbalom began as a perfume I created for myself within a small window of time on my birthday in August 2008. I had taken my daughter to Shakespeare camp at the Will Geer Botanicum Theatricum and rather spontaneously decided to blend a fragrance for myself.

I got out all my favorite raw materials Labdanum, Patchouli, all the Jasmines, the vibrant Oranges and some Ginger among others and began sniffing and blending. Within two hours, which is about how long my labor lasted with Eve, wahlah a Birthday solid perfume for my day!

At the time I had no idea that this would become my very favorite and most often worn perfume, nor did I know it would be the best seller. What I learned from this experience is to follow your nose and your heart.


For the full her story of this fragrance follow this link here at the journal. During this past summer I tinctured Jasmine sambac flowers for the fragrance, read and see photos of that process at this link.

I sent out vials of the new Cimbalom liquid to a variety of fans and patrons. Three of those are joining me today to share there impressions of this sensual floriental. I invite you to board my ship as we, on purple perfumed sails travel to read the eloquent words of my two dear friends.

Donna at Examiner

Ida at Cafleurbon

The perfume in all her sizes and formats is available at my E-shop.

I have a sample vial here of .25 grams of Cimbalom organic liquid perfume. To enter the draw please leave a comment with your e-mail addy so I can contact you if you win. Only one entry per person. The last day to enter is Sunday evening at 10pm PST.

IMAGES
Cleopatra Painting by Jean-Leon Gerome
Photos ©Roxana Villa

The Composite

I've been doing these composites of photos for my perfumes lately. Above is the one I did for Cimbalom, which was sent out with the press release.

The full moon bestowed an enormous amount of orders on this little apothecary in the woods and thus I am super backlogged. The landslide is attributed to having had a few perfumes on the front page of Etsy, being featured in the Etsy Finds newsletter and on other blogs. I am super grateful for all the orders and really overwhelmed at the same time.

I've been going to the post office daily, sometimes twice in one day with my basket full of packages traveling to all parts of the globe. It's quite a thrill. I apologize to all those who are not getting packages as quickly as normal.

Now...back to making and packaging....

Image: Photo composite by Roxana Villa, illustration in the composite is Enchantment by Greg Spalenka.

The Cimbalom Moon

Cimbalom liquid will be formally released on the full moon transpiring Friday, October 22nd. This lunar event is often referred to as the Harvest or Blood Moon. In the northern hemisphere it is a time of the last harvest and honoring the fruits of our labors.


The fragrance features a limited edition tincture of jasmine sambac blossoms from my woodland garden paired with three different jasmine absolutes. Generally associated with the planet Venus, jasmine also has a magical affinity with the Moon due to her watery, heavy, sweet fragrance combined with the aromatherapeutic properties of balance. Nothing compares to pure jasmine absolute, even perfume artists who work with synthetic counterparts augment their accords with the pure plant essence. The aroma is available as a Certified Organic extract, a concrete which is then distilled to produce an absolute, a C02 extract and an enfluerage.

According to a wide variety of aromatherapy books on my shelves real jasmine essence is attributed to having a sedative quality on the nervous system. The aroma of jasmine may assist with menstrual cramps, insomnia, depression and is a powerful aphrodisiac. Famed aromatherapist Marcel Lavabre writes that jasmine "..has the power to transcend physical love."


Throughout many different countries this season is filled with celebrations of light as we transition to the cold winter months that lie ahead. Cimbalom is a vibrant warm floriental that provides nourishment for the soul and illuminates the spirit during times of darkness. Like my other formulations this is an organic vital plant perfume made by my own hands in my studio.

The liquid aspect contains the same melodic notes of jasmine with percussive beats of amber and resin, the main difference is that the citrus top notes are much more vibrant.
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL = FLORIENTAL
Labdanum, Indonesian Patchouli, Indian Jasmine, Ginger and Orange.
The base is plant tinctures and Certified Organic grape and grain alcohol.
The vibrant colored crochet pouch, pictured above, is made by the hands of my very skillful mother, Martha.

Images: Cimbalom photos ©Roxana Villa, Harvest Moon photo by Tracey of Raceytay on Etsy.

Giveaway winner!

The winner of the giveaway for 1 gram bottle of Tangent Botanical Perfume is Katie! Congratulations, I'll be sending off the vial as soon as I receive the shipping data. Many thanks to everyone who participated, I'm really grateful for each of you that stopped by. Please keep in eye out for a giveaway for a vial of Cimbalom, the floriental with the hand crafted Jasmine sambac tincture.


Photos ©Roxana Villa

Jasmine Haze

The weather here in southern California has been extremely erratic. A hot day with temperatures over 100 degrees in the shade is followed by a cool, cloud covered day requiring wool sweaters! As the cycle of Autumn begins the jasmine sambac flowering season bids us adieu along with summer. Although only Mother Nature knows for sure.

"Plants that wake when others sleep. Timid jasmine buds that keep their fragrance to themselves all day, but when the sunlight dies away let the delicious secret out to every breeze that roams about.” ~ Thomas More

Those of you following this blog are aware that I have been dutifully tincturing jasmine sambac flowers from the garden for Cimbalom. Today over at the Lillyella blog I have a tutorial on how to make your very own jasmine sambac tincture.


I'm estimating that the liquid version of Cimbalom will arrive within the next few weeks...depending on our travel plans to the East coast. Stay tuned for more details.

Pikake

"Ah, these jasmines, these white jasmines!..."

~ Excerpt from The First Jasmines by Rabindranath Tagore

The fragrant little Pikake flowers continue blooming daily in the garden. Each day I go out to check if it will be a harvesting day or not. Today was such a day.


Before placing the delicate little blossoms into the tincture I take a few photos. This is the only time of year I have the opportunity to take such photos. Did you know it takes approximately eight thousand of these flowers to obtain one ounce of the precious Jasmin sambac absolute?


For the tincture I swap out the spent flowers and replace with a new fresh crop. The spent flowers I put into another jar with my pure grain alcohol just in case there is still volatile aromatics to be extracted. Today I sampled a bit of the botanical perfume tincture and am happy to report that the aroma is very fine like that of the fresh florets.


Although I may not make it to Hawaii this summer, I do have a very lovely reminder here of the Hawaiian flowers referred to as Pikake.

All that Jasmine

Jasminum sambac, Arabian Jasmine, is now blooming in my garden. The little white flowers begin as tiny buds which slowly unfurl their waxy petals. As the day progresses the white color of the petals turn to red and white.


Each day I go out and harvest the heaven scented flowers for a tincture I am creating for the liquid botanical aspect of Cimbalom.

"Sweet days of summer, the jasmine's in bloom July is dressed up and playing her tune."
~ Seals & Croft

Originally I had bought almost all my plants at Lowes, this year I plan to pick up more from a local nursery called Boething Treeland. I'd much rather support a small, family operated, local nursery that a huge corporate conglomerate.

Let's Dance!

"Summer breeze, makes me feel fine, blowing through the jasmine in my mind."
~ Seals & Crofts

The Jasmine sambac plants in my garden have all decided to begin flowering. A little late this year, not sure why, perhaps because now that I am back from various travels they are getting consistent water.

I adore Jasmine sambac both as a fresh flower and as a single note perfume. The heavy, rich, sweet, floral, green note is a favorite of mine as a botanical perfume artist. Jasmine sambac is like the color pthalo blue and green in my paintings, a reoccurring theme.

The botanical perfume I have created that features this heavenly note in abundance is Cimbalom, created almost a year ago for my birthday. She can also be noted in Lyra (both liquid and solid) and in smaller quantities in Vespertina, Aurora, Vera and Rosa.


Some consider Jasmine the Queen of the Night because a few varieties bloom in the evening, impregnating the air with her sultry aroma. Beckoning you to depart from the mental filled duties of our daily lives she asks you come dance a more creative, sensuous life.


The Scent of the day, is Jasmine! I suggest dancing the weekend in with Cimbalom, she contains three varieties of Jasmine and will facilitate in transcending you from the ordinary into the extraordinary.

Images: Fresh Jasmine sambac flowers in Eve's hands, Heaven painting , 1 gram bottle of Lyra Botanical perfume and Cimbalom perfume in the compact with hand crochet pouch. All images ©RoxanaVilla.

Scent of the Day: Cimbalom

The weather has shifted dramatically here in the City of Angels. For the last two weeks we had a rather intense period of June gloom. Normally June gloom here in Southern California means morning fog which burns off to a beautiful day by noon. This new alternate universe June gloom featured cold and clouds 24/7. I was wearing a sweater most of the day and even leg warmers and fingerless gloves in the morning.

Then yesterday, swoosh, we are back from the alternate universe but now with hot weather. Woolies get put away and out come the dresses and tank tops. What I find most interesting is that my olfactory sense has shifted dramatically with the climate. Chaparral Solid seems to be my number one fav fragrance to wear when the weather is cold and gloomy. However, when the heat arrives I am attracted to earthy florals, specifically Cimbalom. Yesterday I slathered myself in Cimbalom and found myself in such a glorious reverly of indolic, floral bliss.


Thus, the fragrance for the day is Cimbalom, in her all lusty Jasmine glory. Interesting to note that the Jasmine sambac plants in my garden are all about to burst open. Cheers to Jasmine and the upcoming Summer Solstice this Sunday! Have you made a Summer Solstice fragrance for yourself?

Here are a few comments about Cimbalom for you:

"Roxana, your "Birthday Balm" is exquisite. When I closed my eyes I was transported to a blossom and incense scented harem. I felt as though I had entered a hidden world of women-- where sensuous secrets are revealed. It is delicate, potent, sexy-- irresistible."
~ D. Alexander

"Hypnotically addicting...can NOT get enough. Wish I could bathe, drink and surround myself w these scents 24/7. More than just winners ; a way of life for those who appreciate themselves."
~ E. Warshavsky

Angel illustration titled "Ignite Thy Passion" ©Greg Spalenka www.spalenka.com

CIMBALOM™

“Plants that wake when others sleep.
Timid jasmine buds that keep their fragrance to themselves all day,
but when the sunlight dies away let the delicious secret out
to every breeze that roams about.”
~ Thomas More

In August of 2008, rather spontaneously, I created a botanical natural perfume as a gift to myself for my birthday. As I shared it with friends during a performance of Kiss Me Kate at the Will Geer Theatricum Botanicum, I was asked "What do you call this one?" I quickly titled it Birthday Balm. The response to the buttery, delicious scent was extremely positive, thus I decided to include it in my line. Like a caterpillar it has morphed a bit since it's first debut with a few reformulations and name changes. I am proud to announce that the butterfly has now finally emerged from the cocoon with a name, it's color hue and the illumination.

The new name is Cimbalom, after a stringed instrument closely related to the hammered dulcimer. It was my friend Scott that initially proposed a name based on an instrument. I thought it was a great idea since perfume has so many parallels to music. I am a huge fan of the hammered dulcimer in music, specifically Dead Can Dance and Lisa Girard. Since this perfume is in a sense *my* signature perfume, it feels appropriate to weave in all the elements that I adore.


Which brings me to the imagery. As I searched my minds eye for a piece from Maestros existing artworks, I came upon Enchantment. I knew right away she was the one. The imagery of the sleeping beauty amidst the autumn leaves morphing into butterflies is quite appropo for this buttery, sensuous unguent.

The story of this fragrance unfolds utilizing many of my very favorite essences. It is a very sensuous perfume with an underlying wild, animalic note. The main notes are Labdanum, Patchouli and Jasmine with Citrus and Spice making an appearance as top notes.

Cimbalom Solid Perfume is available at my site as a sample, mini compact, round tin or one of the antique inspired compacts. The sample arrives in a neutral pot with the little bee logo wax seal. There The sample provides ample amounts for testing and altaring your consciousness...an altar to your essential nature.

Here are a few remarks from fans:

"Roxana, your "Birthday Balm" is exquisite. When I closed my eyes I was transported to a blossom and incense scented harem. I felt as though I had entered a hidden world of women-- where sensuous secrets are revealed. It is delicate, potent, sexy-- irresistible."
~ D. Alexander

"I love it! Reading the notes included, my response was, ooh, this will be spicy. Indeed, on first sniff it was, yet immediately it tumbled into sweet (the beeswax?), powdery, earthy, woody, autumnal, edible, womanly, sexy, subtle, cool. I found myself swathed in velvet and lace, frolicking between the sun shafts in the mossy forest with the fairy host. That must have been some birthday, girl! Thanks again for the interlude. Love and hugs and Mabon blessings"
~ Anne

and her second note:

"What an amazing perfume. Amazing too how it smelled so completely different on Elizabeth. And yes, the solid perfume seems just right for this yin time of the year."
~ Anne

"Roxana.... what a wonderful, magical balm! It is a harvest of scents... sensuous but not overpowering... absolutely delightful! Can hardly wait for a liquid version of it. Thanks so much for your generosity, and for sharing your alchemical talents with the world! :) Blessings..."
~ Adriane

Enjoy, bee happy, slather yourself often and mindfully.

Perfume images ©Roxana Villa, Enchantment illustration ©Greg Spalenka,
see more at his website.

Roxana Illuminated Perfume™