A Secret in the Forest

The main green notes in perfumes come from leaves and stems which give the impression of the scent of grass and crushed leaves. Heather Ettlinger of the blog “Memory and Desire” has just posted an entry about green perfumes which include our “Q” and Sierra. When I begin a perfume I don’t generally start with the idea of working within a particular fragrance family, perhaps that’s the rebel artist in me. Instead I start with an idea and create the perfume using notes which will best convey the idea. With the perfume Q, it began as a tribute to Beltane which auspiciously led to the Oak. In the case of Sierra, it was the great Redwood trees of the Pacific coast which began the long and winding road of its creation.

About a week ago I was in the midst of making a new batch of Sierra, for some reason this perfume in particular has been rather challenging for me. The perfume contains multiple chords within chords, worlds within worlds, thus when it is reformulated all those chords need to be ready and matured in order to begin. I had just finished the new batch and had three family members take a sniff and give me their impressions. The feedback wasn’t quite what I needed. Greg suggested I ask someone within the perfume arena to give me feedback. The next morning, to my delight, I received a message from Heather Ettlinger with her impression of Sierra. I was delighted at how swiftly spirit had intervened to provide input and am so grateful for Heather. Here are bits and pieces from the e-mail she sent me, which she graciously has permitted me to post.


For the last four days, I have been delving steadily deeper into the forest of the green-colored sample of Sierra. The first time I applied it, I was stunned by its lush dark greenness - almost the blackgreen of the evergreens in Austria, and a real sense that I was deep inside that forest in the midst of a snowfall, with the black branches blocking out light and snow and creating an otherworldy pocket of warmth. The top notes are quite camphoraceous in the first few minutes, and I was a little concerned that this would go bitter, as some camphoraceous notes can turn bitter on me.

How astonishing, then, to find that just fifteen or twenty minutes into that lush forest, I found myself enjoying what seems like it must be orange, spice, and perhaps the ambery resin of labdanum?

It's as though in the middle of an immense and forbidding black forest (Percival probably entered the Great Woods in search of the Grail at just such a point of darkness) I was standing at the doorstep of a cottage, the candlelight and shine of warmth and laughter radiating from within it. I imagine here that it is advent, and this couple is celebrating the winter festivals in their hidden forest home, but they have spared no expense for their guests who have wandered here, enchanted, just as I have. The lady of the house has taken us all in, the fugitive princess hiding in a tiny cave, the weary beggar, the dancing girl, and two tiny little men with bright violet eyes, who speak no language we know, but understand all we say. We sit late into the night; the table is decorated with living branches, sap pouring through the greenery onto the table and crystalizing into amber gems before us. An intoxicating tea is served with exotic fruits, studded with spices. It is a long, marvelous evening, much longer than we thought possible.

This scent lasts much longer than I would ever expect a botanical scent to last, and it has real backbone - real courage! I adore it, Roxana. Sierra remains lively and interesting through a good eight hours..

I am very happy to have had the opportunity to try this lush green walk in an enchanted woods, and if I am the princess hiding in the cave, I am brought out of it and into a home of safety through this deliciously inviting scent. In short, I love it.

Inspired,
Heather

The botanical perfumes “Q” and Sierra each give a portion to a related organization from the sale of the 1/4 oz flacon of perfume. "Q" is affiliated with the California Oak Foundation and Sierra is affiliated with TreePeople. Both these perfumes are part of our series celebrating the
aromatic landscape of the state of California. Learn more about the Californica series by clicking here.

Entirely Green on Memory and Desire
Roxana Illuminated Perfume™

Images: Above "Sierra" © Greg Spalenka, middle image is a secondary image used for Sierra from our website, the other image is a painting by Sir John Everett Millais titled The Proscribed Royalist 1651, Date: 1852-53 from ArtMagick.

Choose Me

The question I most often get asked regarding my line of natural, botanical perfume is "Can you help me choose?" Usually it's a perfume for themselves, sometimes for a friend or relative. Thus I've prepared this guide to help out.

VANILLA
Figure 10: Blanc
Aumbre
Page 47
Q
Lyra

+++

AMBER
Aumbre
Lyra
Q
Page 47
Cimbalom

The FLORAL family encompasses many flowers including:

JASMINE
Cimbalom
Lyra
Chiaroscuro
Page 47

+++

ROSE
Rosa: The liquid is more earthy featuring oud, while the solid is sweeter.
Vespertina

+++

VIOLET
Gracing the Dawn

+++

LAVENDER
Vera


CARNATION
Aurora: Not true Carnation but it does contain Carnation absolute from France and related notes.

+++

SEASIDE, BEACH or OCEAN
Green Witch
Page 47

+++

MEN / UNISEX
Chaparral
Q
Aumbre
Figure 5: Bois
(I have a male friend that wears Green Witch)

CITRUS
Blossom

+++

ORANGE BLOSSOM
Blossom

+++

SWEET
Lyra
Peace
Sierra Solid Gold
Figure 10: Blanc

+++

SPICE
Sierra Solid Gold
To Bee
Aurora
Aumbre

FRUITY
Sierra Solid Gold
Cimbalom



WOOD
Chaparral
Q
Figure 5: Bois

+++

SANDALWOOD
Vespertina

+++

DESERT
Chaparral

+++

CONIFER
Sierra

+++

FAIRY / FAERIE
Q
"I love fragrances and everything that my favorite ones evoke but I was truly captivated by Roxana's Q perfume the first time I experienced it. It evokes something ancient and at the same time very intimate and personal. To me it's a "remembered" fragrance that taps into the green world of Faerie in the same way that a painting or sculpted image can.
When I wear it, which is often, I feel closer to that elusive and magical world." ~Wendy Froud

Gracing the Dawn

+++

SMOKE
Chaparral
Q
Figure 5: Bois

+++

GREEN
Hedera helix
Green Witch

+++

HERBACEOUS
Chaparral
Vera

+++

EARTHY
Terrestre
Chaparral®
Figure 1: Noir
Figure 5: Bois

+++

CHYPRE
GreenWitch
Gracing the Dawn
Hedera helix

+++

CALIFORNIA
from the Californica series
Q for Quercus agrifolia, the California native oak
Chaparral for the California biome
Sierra for the California redwoods
Vera an ode to Ojai, California
Rosa for the California native wild woodland rose
Page 47 for Malibu beach and the coastline

+++

CHRISTMAS
Sierra Solid Gold
To Bee

+++

MAGIC
Sierra Solid Gold
Vespertina

+++

VAMPIRE QUEEN
Around Halloween a customer asked me what a beautiful Vampire Queen from long ago would wear, I suggested layering Vespertina with some dark and woody like Q, Terrestre, Chaparral or even To Bee. Another idea is Rosa with something darker layered over her like the three mentioned above. I've layered Terrestre over Aurora liquid to get a really nice leather.

+++

ROMANCE
For this category I have selected scents that contain Ylang Ylang, Rose and Jasmine since those are the essences most often connected with the heart, the Goddess and have aphrodisiac properties.
Vespertina
Rosa
Lyra
Aurora
Page 47
Chiarsocuro

+++

CALMING
All illuminated perfumes have the ability to add a sense of calm and serenity since they are made

with vibrational essences from the plant kingdom. I personally find that Chaparral, with the high

quantity of frankincense, to help me find peace. Some customers have found it by using Aurora,

others with Page 47 and Vera. It really will depend on what aromas induce that particular feeling

for each individual. For some it will be fragrances that are from woods while others it will

be those derived from flowers, etc. Due to each persons stored memories the sense response

may differ. Generally in aromatherapy the scents associated with instilling a sense of calm

are Lavender, Sandalwood, Frankincense, Tangerine and Chamomile.

+++

ENERGIZING
In aromatherapy essences associated with being energizing are Peppermint, Juniper, Rosemary

and Eucalyptus. Since these have a very strong menthol and medicinal note,

I tend to use them sparingly in the fragrances I create.

Chaparral

Vera

GreenWitch

+++

GROUNDING

Terrestre

Aumbre

Q
Figure 1: Noir

Still not sure? Consider a sample pack and or gift certificate.
Feel free to send me an e-mail roxana illuminatedperfume com
Here is a link to illuminated perfume reviews to assist in more clarity.

Knock on Wood

On this Wednesday I am working on the Forest accord which is contained within the Sierra liquid perfume. Sierra liquid perfume is the most complex out of all the fragrances I have created. So complex in fact that the formula is contained within a binder devoted souly to her.

Sierra's early form was a bath salt and scrub I created back in 2000 titled Forest. Due to customer demand I modified the original blueprint to develop the liquid perfume. I began by utilizing the original Forest accord for the bath salts. This accord is what I am preparing more of today, for the perfume as well as the bath and salt scrubs.

For the updated version of the bath and salt scrubs I am also infusing some of my jojoba oil with benzoin and frankincense. Now is a particularly good time for infusing and tincturing due to the position of the Moon.

Read more about Sierra liquid perfume at these links:
+ Memory and Desire blog post: Entirely Green
+ Here at this journal: A Secret in the Forest

The term "knock on wood" may have been derived from the Celtic peoples belief that trees have the power to heal humans. The Celtic tree alphabet called the Ogham was a secret a ritualistic language. I have referred to the Ogham extensively here with entires corresponding to the Celtic Tree Calendar. Currently we are in the middle of the fifth month associated with Saille, the Willow.

"Willow and the Rowan Tree, Were tardy in array."
~ from the ancient Celtic poem The Battle of the Trees

The etymology of the word willow is rather complex but appears to stem from "withy" meaning to bend. Wicker furniture was originally created utilizing willow switches.

The Willow is part of the Salicacae family which includes two genera Salix and Populus. In botanical perfume, we have a Poplar essential oil that could be utilized if one were creating a magical perfume attributed to the Willow. Poplar is contained in our Sierra liquid perfume.

Willows are found near water and thus symbolically are connected with knowledge and spiritual growth. Other associations include: protection, healing, and cycles. Most often these cycles appear in relationship to mysterious associated with women, like the moon. The white willow tree is also referred to as The Tree of Enchantment and connected to the White Lady. If you have a willow tree nearby, give the tree an offering, select a shoot and tie a loose knot while intending your wish. Once the wish has been granted, express your gratitude to the tree and untie the knot. Tonight I'll be delving into water element and partaking in a bath with my Fresh bath salts as I invoke the White Lady.

The leaves and bark of this tree have been utilized by the Assyrians, Sumerians, and the Egyptians for aches and pains. In fact the origins of aspirin are preparations with white willow bark. The main chemical component in white willow bark is salicin which was isolated in 1828 to create the synthetic, patented version we all now refer to as aspirin. Willow is also utilized for the charcoal many artists use for drawing. Willow nectar is especially appreciated by the apis kingdom, the bees, for making honey.

The Scent for Today is Sierra liquid perfume or GreenWitch, devoted to the White Lady.

Sierra Solid Gold Perfume

"Trees are the earth's endless effort to speak to the listening heaven."

~ Rabindranath Tagore

At the NYC Sniffapalooza Fall Ball I debuted the first fragrance in our new solid perfume line. It is the solid version of Sierra, our perfume devoted to the California Redwoods. The solid version of this fragrance is quite different from the liquid. The original formula was created several years back when I decided to create a perfume for prosperity. Thus, with "prosperity" in mind, I began with the idea of Frankincense and Myrrh, since these two essences are linked with tales of the spice trails and gifts to the newly born Christ child. It is said that both Frankincense and Myrrh were considered more valuable than gold. The scented ointments found in Tut'ankhamun's tomb when it was first opened in 1922 contained ample quantities of Frankincense, Myrrh and Cedarwood.

Thus, to the Frankincense and Myrrh I added Cedarwood. Since the essential oil of Frankincense contains pinene as one of its major components I added some of the coniferous essences which are also rich in pinene. To create some mystery and bring back the aroma to the spice trails I added a few spice notes complimented by citrus. The overall fragrance is rich and warm.

A few years back when a group of local friends were meeting regularly in Topanga to share and visualize each others intentions, we used this solid perfume as part of the ritual. Utilizing a perfume created with the vitality of plants and a strong intention in its formulation facilitates a stronger tie to the heavenly and earthly planes.

This fragrance also contains a few drops of a magical accord for prosperity created last month. Click here to read about the accord.

The Sierra solid perfume comes in an antique finish metal compact contained in a teal green hand crocheted pouch. The retail price is $72, samples are available for $8.

edited October 11, 2011

Roxana Illuminated Perfume™
Images at top: Sierra©Greg Spalenka and bottom right is a photo of our Sierra solid perfume compact and it's pouch.

As Noted

I often get asked to "reveal" more of the notes in my perfumes. When this query is presented I wonder what exactly is being asked. For example is it the fragrance notes or the ingredients that the enquirer is interested in? If it is the fragrance notes then I ask them, "Well, what fragrance notes are you perceiving?" After all, perception is an act of creation. Each persons perception will be different based on their life experience. Who am "I" to tell "you" what to smell?

I use accords/chords in perfumery formulation. These have been created in advance. Each accord has at least six different ingredients. Some accords have several accords within them, my Leather accord is the most complex containing about three accords within that one accord. Perfumers, like artists, have different modes of working. Some perfumes have simple formulas with three top notes, three middle notes and three base notes. This is the system that Mandy Aftel taught back in April of 2002 when she was here at my home facilitating a Natural Perfumery Workshop to a small group. Even further back when I studied with John Steele he had us creating perfumes with a few simple notes including a methodology similar to the top, middle and base approach.

The formulas in my perfumes are extremely complex. Rosa liquid perfume has four different accords contained within her, Sierra liquid also has many accords. Even Sierra Solid Gold has a few of the same multiple accords as her liquid counterpart as well as an infused oil accord made with the intention of prosperity. Each Illuminated Perfume has at the very least one accord.

For the materials used I prefer to state what is contained, compared to what is not. However, traditional thought processes still seem to want the not. Thus...lets begin with what is used in Integral Perfume:

• Organic Grape Spirits and Organic Grain Alcohol distilled in Oregon, both beverage grade.
• Essential Oils, Absolutes, Concretes and C02 extracts primarily from plant matter. The only essences that are not from plants are: Beeswax, Honey, Seashells and Seaweed. GreenWitch contains a very small amount of Africa Stone, which is the fossilized excrement of a small mammal in Africa. I utilize "whole" essences in keeping with the concept of Gaia and Holistic Aromatherapy.
• Golden Jojoba Seed Oil.
• Organic, unfiltered Beeswax, from local sources including bees I am tending.
  
• Plant infusions and tinctures, some from my own native plants.
  

What I do not use:

• No animal ingredients (except for a tad of Africa stone), nor do I test on animals.
  
• No isolates, as stated above I only use "whole" essence.
• No synthetic fragrances.
• No petrochemicals.
• No parabens.
• No phthalates.
• No artificial colors.

A definition of what botanical perfume is can be read here at this journal by following this link: Botanical Perfume: A Comprehensive Definition.

Then there is this asking of well which ingredients exactly? When I list woods the most common in my palette are Cypress, Cedarwood and Sandalwood. I have a vintage Mysore Sandalwood, Santalum album, from an old growth tree that due to age fell down. I also have some of the distillations from other parts of the world. With Cedarwood or Cypress there are many different types of each and depending on the botanical name, where the plant material originates and is distilled there will be variations in the aromatic profile. For example with Cypress you have the standard as well as an emerald, a jade, a blue and an absolute, each will impart different "notes" to the perfume. So then the question becomes, well which one exactly. That answer gets into propriety information and I will not venture into that territory. My Wood accord has a variety of each of the ones listed above as well as other woods. This can be even more complex if you take into account that there are some woods that do not have a distinctive "woody" note to them.

Some of my accords are vertical, some horizontal and some can be considered complete perfumes onto themselves. This was noted by Andy Tauer when he was here at the studio last year. I had him sniff several of my Floral accords which made him comment that some were perfumes onto themselves and that Vero Kern works in a similar manner. Andy uses the term bases for what I call accords/chords, where as a base for me can mean the carrier as an oil or alcohol or a base note.

There are instances where an infusion, tincture or wax is utilized this imparting a note that is not from the essential oils, absolutes, c02 extracts or concretes.

Now you are wondering how this question became so complicated when you just wanted a simple answer. Regrettably, as you can see the answer is not simple unless you look at my very early formulas when I was taking the leap from Aromatherapy into Natural Perfume. Here is an example of a simple formula I made in the 1990's at a class in Malibu with John Steele: Spikenard, Patchouli, Vanilla, Jasmine, Elemi, Nutmeg and Grapefruit.

Vespertina™ liquid perfume is a good example of how there is a specific fragrance note that is not an ingredient. Although there is no Orange Blossom in the perfume it is repeatedly cited as the main fragrance note. In fact, just recently on the Fragranticia blog, Michelyn Camen stated "Roxana Villa’s intoxicating orange blossom and floral Vespertina perfume..."

To list every single ingredient in each of my perfumes would be daunting and provide no meaningful information. The more important questions are: Do you like the fragrance? How does it make you feel? What memories are being stirred for you? Keep in mind that the perfumes I formulate are created from whole, vital plant essences used in therapeutic aromatherapy. So the question of "How does it make you feel?" is very relevant.

The big main stream perfume houses decided to use synthetic aroma chemicals created in a lab so that they need not deal with the variety and the dynamic shifts in nature. To supply aromas to the masses for the multitude of fragrance products the synthetic route was chosen since it is predicable and allows for a much larger profit margin. Generally when you see the words Rose and Jasmine in most perfumes it is an aroma chemical that is attempting to recreate the aroma of the essential oil or absolute, some of the most expensive raw materials in perfume.

Getting back on track here with authenticity and the notes in my perfumes I have created a list to make things a bit easier for those craving more in depth notations into each of my perfumes. Indeed, I do not reveal all my actual ingredients. It's the mind that wants the list of ingredients, it's the heart and soul that devours the fragrance. I invite you to let go of the mind and journey to that sensuous and vibrant Garden of Eden.

Roxana Illuminated LIQUID Perfumes
in a base of beverage grade, organic grain and grape alcohol.

Lyra
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL
Twenty different essences including: Amber Accord, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang and Citrus.
Review of Lyra Liquid at The Pink Room

Aurora
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL
Amber Accord, Jasmine, Rose, Spice and Mandarin.
Read Divina's review at the Fragrance Bouquet here.

Q
Fragrance family: WOOD, CHYPRE
Resin, Wood Accord, Italian Bergamot, tinctured Coastal Live Oak leaves
More info about Q here at the journal
Reviews of Q perfume
Article from the Topanga Messenger: The Oaky Scent of Philanthropy
Q is featured at the Examiner.com - USA
A portion of the proceeds from the 7 gram flacon supports the California Oak Foundation.

Chaparral®
Fragrance family: WOOD, INCENSE
Frankincense, Wood Accord, Sage, Bay.
A percentage of proceeds from the sale of the 7 gram flacon supports The Chaparral Institute

Sierra
Fragrance family: WOOD, CONIFER
Wood, Resin, Conifer, Citrus and tinctures including sustainably harvested Redwood bark.
This perfume contains a total of three accords with accordds within those accords.
Memory and Desire, Entirely Green
Lucy of Indie Perfume on both Rosa and Sierra.

Vera
Fragrance family: HERBAL, FOUGERE
Ingredients include:
Wood, Resin, Bees Honeycomb, California Lavender and Sage, French Lavender, Bay, Citrus, a faux Ambergris accord I created and two of my own tinctures of Lavender and native California Sage.

The primary fragrance notes include:

Lavender, Orange blossom, Hay, Honey.

Vera included in a Review at Scent Hive

Vespertina™
Fragrance family: FLORAL
Main Notes: Precious Woods, Frankincense, Patchouli, Rose, Jasmine, Spice and Citrus.
Read Divina's Review at the Fragrance Bouquet

Rosa
Fragrance family: FLORAL
Leather Accord, Vetiver, Precious woods, Rose, Rose Accord, Citrus.
There are two accords in this perfume, the Leather accord contains several accords within it.
More about Rosa here at the journal.
Lucy of Indie Perfume on both Rosa and Sierra.

The perfume devoted to Peace
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL, GOURMAND
Vintage Sandalwood, Tobacco, Vanilla Orchid Bean, Champa, Blue Lotus, Clementine, Ginger, Neroli.
Info here at the journal with links to Scent impressions from the blogging community.
A percentage of proceeds from the sale of the 7 gram flacon compact support Project Peace of Earth

In 2010 expect GreenWitch and the debut Cimbalom and Page 47 as liquids..and a few other surprises.

Overall Reviews:
Heather of Memory and Desire, Perfume in a Poem Project
Read Gaia's Review at The Non-Blonde Part One and Part Two
Helg at Perfume Shrine

Roxana Illuminated SOLID Perfumes
in a base of unrefined beeswax, golden jojoba oil and infused oils.

Lyra
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL
Amber Accord, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang and Citrus.
Review of Lyra at Scent Hive

Aurora
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL
Amber Accord, Jasmine, Rose, Spice and Mandarin.

Q
Fragrance family: WOOD, CHYPRE
Resin, Wood Accord, Italian Bergamot, infused Coastal Live Oak leaves.
A portion of the proceeds from the solid perfume compact supports the California Oak Foundation.

Chaparral®
Fragrance family: WOOD, INCENSE
Frankincense, Wood, Sage and Bay, tinctured Coastal Live Oak leaves, wood and sage.
Read more about Chaparral® here at the journal
Toms Review at Perfume Smellin' Things
A percentage of proceeds from the sale of the 7 gram flacon support The Chaparral Institute

Sierra Solid Gold
Fragrance family: WOOD, CONIFER, GOURMAND
Frankincense, Myrrh, Wood, Conifer, Rosemary, Spice and Citrus.
Ingredients include: Frankincense, Myrrh, Cedarwood and a Prosperity infusion.
Read more about Sierra Solid Gold at this link and a link contained here at the journal.
Praise for Sierra Solid Gold at The Frisky.

Vespertina™
Fragrance family: FLORAL
Precious Woods, Resin, Rose and Citrus.
Read Beth's piece at Perfume Smellin' Things about the fragrance and it's inspiration.

Cimbalom
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL
Labdanum, Indonesian Patchouli, Indian Jasmine, Ginger and Orange.

Terrestre
Fragrance family: WOOD, CONIFER
Precious Oud, Labdanum, Cedar, Patchouli, Distilled Indian Earth, Vetiver, Indian Rose and Galbanum

The perfume devoted to Peace
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL, GOURMAND
Three separate accords including essences from each continent, included are Vintage Mysore Sandalwood, Tobacco, Vanilla Orchid Bean, Champa, Blue Lotus, Clementine, Ginger and Neroli.
Info here at the journal with links to Scent impressions from the blogging community.
A percentage of proceeds from the sale of the solid perfume compact support Project Peace of Earth

In 2010 Vera and Rosa will debut as creamy solid unguents and more from the Chocolate series. I am also developing Body Butters and a few other scented delights.

Felix Felicis

On Friday I had this feeling that someone had spiked my tea with some luck potion, like the one from Harry Potter termed Felix Felicis. Well, interestingly enough, I just heard from the ever so enchanted Goddess of perfume script that Sierra Solid Gold was featured on a blog that day.

Sierra Solid Gold contains a very special, intention filled botanical perfume accord, specific to prosperity. Cheers to Felix Felicis and the wonder of an enchanted life. Read more about Sierra Solid Gold here at this link.

Thank you Perfume Shrine and The Frisky. Please head on over and show these blogs some LOVE by leaving a comment.

Perfume Shrine" Praise for Sierra Solid Gold"
&
The Frisky

Prosperity Accord

Continuing on from yesterdays post on weaving magic into botanical perfume formulation I will share some of the methodology utilized in the magical accord within the Sierra solid perfume. To read the initial post on the Sierra solid perfume from November 8th click here.

I began by looking at the planetary associations and influences with prosperity. I choose:

SUN = PROSPERITY
EARTH = MANIFESTATION

Then I looked at numerical associations. In researching numbers I decided on 4 since it is associated with the Earth. I choose to infuse four materials in oil that I would leave in the SUN for four days and bury in the EARTH for four nights. Alternating between the SUN and EARTH to impregnate the energetic’s of both into the raw material with a blueprint of SUN and EARTH. I began the infusions on SUNday.

Next I looked at plant materials associated with the SUN and EARTH. I made a list of what I discovered:

SUN

• Amber
• Benzoin
• Broom
• Calendula
• Everlasting
• Frankincense
• Labdanum
• Saffron
• The Red Tincture: Ceonathus Root, also called Red Root

EARTH

• Mushrooms
• Patchouli
• Sage
• Spruce
• Vetiver

Somewhere I had read that Tonka Bean is associated with prosperity, so I included Tonka Bean on my list. At another source I read that Vervain is used to make dreams come true, so I added it. I also included Myrrh because of the association with the gifts of Frankincense and Myrrh to the Christ. I added Champa for its warm SUN-like quality. Oakmoss was on the list, however, I did not have it diluted in oil, so I did not use it. Black Musk smells extremely EARTHY to me so I added it as well.

My four tinctures, begun on SUNday, over a period of four days in the SUN and four nights in the EARTH, I used the following materials:

• Benzoin: SUN
• Tonka Bean: Jupiter is the planet of fortune
• Onycha: Elemental water for flow
• Red Root: This was my substitution for the “Red Tincture” listed for the SUN. I liked that it was from a native plant and a root, roots are associated with EARTH.

During the formulation I found the synergy got a little overly EARTH smelling, which I choose to correct so that there would be an equinox of Earth and Sun.

I add a drop of this accord when creating the Sierra Solid Perfume. My suggestion is to anoint yourself with the perfume while envisioning what prosperity means for you. Consider beginning with gratitude, I have been told that one of the paths to prosperity is gratitude.

Special thank you to Harry of Alchemy Works for his input on the formula and very useful website.

Roxana Illuminated Perfume™
E-Shop where you can find Sierra Solid Gold in a few sizes.




Opening image: Expand Your Vision ©Greg Spalenka

A Gift Guide: Mother Earth

To commemorate the bounty of Mother Earth and honor our Mothers I have compiled a special gift guide. The guide is meant to facilitate grace and ease if you plan gifting your self or another individual on the two upcoming special days.

EARTH

"There are no passengers on Spaceship Earth. We are all crew."
~Marshall McLuhan, 1964

Celebrating Earth Day with a perfume made of the natural raw materials that come from the earth and are healing to mind and body seems most fitting. Don't you think? Elemental Earth is
the home of our connection to the here & now. It is related to the base chakra, the place of manifestation, control & restraint and grounded in experience. Home of the Male, strength and ability to create magic. The spirit medicine of Snake dwells here with the ability to move swiftly, above and below the ground, to shed what no longer serves and be born anew.


The fragrances most related to this energetic imprint are Terrestre solid and Sierra Solid Gold Perfume. Both these fragrances are in a solid round format, like the earth. The essences contained have an earth bound quality. The formula for Terrestre was created during Earth Hour with the perfume released last year on Earth Day. Sierra Solid Gold contains drops of a magical accord for prosperity.

Terrestre
Fragrance family: WOOD, CONIFER
Notes: Precious Oud, Labdanum, Cedar, Patchouli, Distilled Indian Earth, Vetiver, Indian Rose and Galbanum

Sierra Solid Gold
Fragrance family: WOOD, CONIFER, GOURMAND
Notes: Frankincense, Myrrh, Wood, Conifer, Rosemary, Spice and Citrus.

MOTHER

"The real religion of the world comes from women much more than from men - from mothers most of all, who carry the key of our souls in their bosoms."
~Oliver Wendell Holmes

Mother provide endless amounts of love, nurturing and patience. To help facilitate this sense of grace in mom consider a fragrance composed of flowers or essences associate with the above mentioned virtues.

In aromatherapy Jasmine is considered a euphoric with applications for treating depression, anxiety, sexual challenges and facilitating greater creativity. Within magical circles Jasmine is associated with the moon, the feminine and elemental water. The illuminated perfume containing the most obvious note of Jasmine are Cimbalom and Lyra.

Cimbalom
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL
Labdanum, Indonesian Patchouli, Indian Jasmine, Ginger and Orange.

Lyra
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL
Twenty different essences including: Amber Accord, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang and Citrus.

If your mum is in need of rest consider Vera with her bounty of Lavender essential oil or the perfume devoted to Peace.

Vera
Fragrance family: HERBAL, FOUGERE

The primary fragrance notes include: Lavender, Orange blossom, Hay, Honey.

The perfume devoted to Peace
Fragrance family: FLORAL, ORIENTAL, GOURMAND
Vintage Sandalwood, Tobacco, Vanilla Orchid Bean, Champa, Blue Lotus, Clementine, Ginger, Neroli.

For the mom with the gracious and abundant heart mirror her with the fragrance of Rose, a perennial symbol of love and beauty.

Vespertina™
Fragrance family: FLORAL
Main Notes: Precious Woods, Frankincense, Patchouli, Rose, Jasmine, Spice and Citrus.

Rosa
Fragrance family: FLORAL
Leather Accord, Vetiver, Precious woods, Rose, Rose Accord, Citrus.

If mom is yearning for the Ocean, the Sea Chypre perfume GreenWitch is devoted to the Greek Aquatic Goddess Tethys.

GreenWitch
Fragrance family: CHYPRE
Oakmoss, Labdanum, Seaweed, Jasmine, Rose and Bergamot.

Still not sure, how about one of the many sample packs: Liquid Perfume Samples, Solid Perfume Minis, the Ultimate Natural Botanical Perfume Sampler or a Gift Certificate.

If mom isn't into fragrance but a lover of nature give her something to adorn herself with, a antique inspired necklace with an ornamental iconic bee image.


All of these items can be found at my E-shop by clicking on this link here. All items arrive beautifully presented and ready to gift.

Prince Charming

The Prince of Charm, Andy Tauer, came by for a visit Thursday evening. He brought his partner Werner (pronounced Verner) with him. I was so enchanted that I forgot to document the visit with pictures. When I did remember, the affair felt way too sacred for a camera. In fact I contemplated not posting about it and holding the memory close to my heart.

Andy and Werner arrived here at our little tree house-like abode at 5pm. I was gifted with one of the new Tauer Perfume sample packs, shown above. We began the evening with a toast with some jasmine sambac hydrosol. Then I invited them to my studio for some sniffing. Werner declined on the sniffing and choose to hang with Greg and the fresh guacamole.

Meanwhile, I took Andy on an olfactory adventure through each of my fragrances. As he inhaled each individual perfume, from a freshly dipped scent strip, I noticed that he looked perfectly poised like a ballerina. He stands very erect, as if in second position, and becomes completely devoted to the experience of taking in the scent molecules being offered to him. That was when I wanted to snap a picture, but, I was also extremely conscious of the sacredness of that moment.

During the sniffing he asked lots of great questions and seemed most intrigued by Q, Chaparral Vera and Sierra. In fact Sierra was his favorite of the seven he experienced. He asked how could it be that I use up to 50 different ingredients in one perfume. Thus, I shared a few of the accords that go into Sierra, explaining that each accord can have up to ten ingredients in each one. Andy does not formulate using accords in fact he refers to them bases. He shared that perfumer Vero Kern uses some of this accord methodology.

We probably could have spent the entire night in my studio talking perfume and formulation. Greg came in at one point and reminded us that the guacamole was almost gone, as well as the light. From the house the adventure weaved its way deep into the Santa Monica Mountains just as the sun was starting to go down. The view and quality of light was quite fantastic. The sunlight was being filtered through the pink colored clouds to produce a very surreal and magical landscape. An image I don't think any of us will soon forget.

After our walk we served dinner, followed by dessert and more fragrant journeys. This time we sniffed a variety of ingredients found in my palette. It was fun to introduce Andy to precious essences he had not yet experienced, like Mitti and a co-distillation of Vetiver and Rose. It was also interesting to compare and contrast our tastes. The other item Andy was curious about in my perfume formulation was the process of tincturing.

The evening then turned from the olfaction to visual & auditory. Andy and Werner were taken to Gregs world, where visual art reigns supreme. This time it was Greg's turn to enchant with his new film reel and award winning illustrations.

The Andy and Werner duo are here in California for a few weeks. This past Saturday Andy appeared at The Scent Bar where he will present again on October 17th. For now they are off to the peace and tranquility of L'Air du desert.

Here are my thoughts on Vetiver Dance:
I've been on a high dancing with Andys latest fragrance, Vetiver Dance. It is a stunning and beautiful perfume. He managed to tame vetiver essential oil, which has a tendency to get very heavy and prominent in formulas. Vetiver is one of those notes that is extremely viscous and not necessarily "friendly", a tricky one to manage. Andy expertly choreographed vetiver to dance fluidly in the composition of this fragrance. I am most enchanted with the Ambergris note, is it real or married with the synthetic ambriene? Either way, it is a luscious, velvety note that floats up through the dance as the vetiver diminishes. Read more about Andy's new fragrance at Perfume Shrine.

Andy Tauer Perfumes
Vero Kern
Lucky Scent

Roxana Illuminated Perfume™

Images: Top is a photo I took of Andys perfume sampler gift, Face in the Sunset image© Greg Spalenka, Alchemical bottle on parchment©Roxana Villa and Vetiver Dance image is from the Lucky Scent website.

The Spice Melange

As Summer comes to a close the time of the flowers ends as the cycle of spice and wood enters the landscape. Here in the Northern hemisphere, although the Jasmine sambac and Plumeria are still blooming in the garden, signs of the seasonal shift are upon us. The oaks now have their acorns and the native plants are slowly awakening from their summer slumber.

Yesterday I made Aurora solid for several orders that had come in, today I am making Sierra Solid Gold, both of these are spice perfumes. Aurora is a floriental, with a rich heart of flowers shaded with subtle spice notes, similar to the scent of a carnation. Sierra Solid Gold has much more prominent spice notes with resins, vanilla, frankincense and myrrh, no flowers. To my nose, Sierra Solid Gold embodies what I associate as the smell of Christmas.

Observing what fragrances are trending in my sales is always fascinating, sometimes its due to a write up somewhere or a customer that has infected all her friends with a specific perfume. The latter took place about a month ago with Aumbre.

The popular fragrances over the last two weeks have been mostly those with prominent vanilla notes, especially Blanc followed by Page 47 with Lyra and Cimbalom on the tale end. Just before the Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco I had made a large bottle of the synergy for Blanc, that synergy is almost gone. (gasp!) I believe Blanc may overtake GreenWitch in the overall best seller position.

Another interesting trend I've noticed is that people are asking for subtle fragrances. Some perceive Hedera helix, GreenWitch, Cimbalom and Vera as "too strong", interesting huh? This indicates that there are just as many people interested in botanical perfumes that are subtle as those looking for superb longevity.

My daughter Eve heads back to college this coming Sunday, which makes me very sad but also will open up more focus time on all these projects I've got in the cauldron. Ideally I'd like to take this week off, however that's not going to happen, spice production must not stop. Can you tell we watched Dune recently? Here's an interesting bit of historic movie trivia regarding the film adaptation of Dune and what it inspired, How the Failed Dune Movie You Never Saw Gave Birth to Prometheus.

Images: Anise postcard collage, Aurora solid perfume photo and Vanilla bean photo by Roxana, Dune movie poster image via 80's Movie Posters

Woodland Fresh

Spontaneous new photo of the Sierra Solid Gold mini compact. Although Vera and Page 47 are the fragrances that are trending at the moment, Sierra seems the obvious choice to me for the holidays. The evergreens in the solid perfume are orchestrated with a special prosperity chord that contains frankincense and myrrh. There is also spice and vanilla which counters the fresh conifers with a warm, gourmand notes.

Here is what a customer in NYC, who recently ordered a compact says about it: "Sierra: outdoorsy, mystical, energizing, alluring. This makes me feel so alive and vibrant. Thank you!"

Illuminated Perfume Reviews

Here is a list of reviews and such, organized by botanical natural perfume name, it will be updated regularly. If I am missing one of your favorites, please let me know.

IMPROMPTU 1st edition
The Non-Blonde

Perfume Smellin' Things

IndiePerfumes: Impromptu

ÇaFleureBon: Impromptu

VERA
Perfume Smellin' Things VERA: May Flowers, Madam
Trish at Scent Hive
Blogdorf Goodman

AURORA liquid
Fragrance Bouquet

VESPERTINA liquid
Fragrance Bouquet
Scent Hive: Vespertina™

VESPERTINA solid and liquid
Perfume Smellin' Things VESPERTINA: Perfume, Art & Music




Roxana Illuminated Perfume
May 2010 issue of C Magazine, pg 54
Perfume Smellin’ Things
Memory and Desire: Perfume in a Poem Project
Memory and Desire: Entirely Green
Perfume Shrine
The Non-Blonde: Part One
The Non-Blonde: Part Two
Holistic Beekeeping with Illuminated Perfume at the Etsy blog

SIERRA SOLID GOLD
Perfume Shrine
The Frisky Blog



CHAPARRAL
A Real Bodice Ripper, Perfume Smellin' Things
Creating Chaparral® Fragrantica
Trish at Scent Hive

"Q"
Topanga Messenger: The Oaky Scent of Philanthropy
Perfume Smellin' Things
Q is featured at the Examiner.com - USA

PHOENIX MYSTER
Perfume Smellin' Things

BLOSSOM Eau de Cologne
Tom at Perfume Smellin' Things

LYRA
Find a list by following this link here at the journal.
Scent Hive
The Pink Room

ROSA & SIERRA
Indie Perfumes

CIMBALOM liquid
Perfume Smellin' Things



GRACING the DAWN
Beth at The Cleveland Examiner
Donna at Perfume Smelling Things
Trish at Scent Hive
Lucy at Indie Perfumes
Elena at Perfume Shrine
and
Ida at CaFleurBon

GREEN WITCH liquid
The Windesphere Witch
Perfume Smellin' Things
Scent Hive

GREEN WITCH solid
The Windesphere Witch
Perfume Smellin' Things
Scent Hive

To BEE
The Perfume Magazine
Tom at Perfume Posse
Lucy at Indie Perfume
Trish at Scent Hive
Donna at Perfume Smellin' Things
Margi MacDonald at Perfume Pharmer
Jade Shutes at the IDA blog
Elena at Perfume Shrine
Now Smell This
Eyeliner on a Cat



HEDERA HELIX
Donna at Perfume Smellin' Things
Perfume devoted to PEACE: Impressions of Peace
Memory and Desire
Perfume Smellin' Things
Scent Hive
The Non-Blonde: Impressions of Peace
Indie Perfumes

Medicine Wheel

Greg and I have been diligently working on preparing for tonight's meeting in Van Nuys to protect these glorious native oaks and the land. We've gathered the neighbors, we have all the facts in order, we've got the photos, abundant amounts of passion and heart...what else???

Last night as I soaked in the bath with the scent of the conifers, juniper and grapefruit I asked, "What else can I do for the Oaks? How can I harness some powerful energies to be at this evening hearing?" Well, this blog post came to mind.

With an intention of gathering strong magic for this evenings meeting I call upon YOU and....

THE EAST

We call upon the Spirit-Keepers of the East, elemental AIR, home of our mental abilities and consciousness, ruled by the STARS and the color white…The throat chakra, the place of self expression, creativity and breath. Home of the Newborn, Dawn, New Beginnings, vision and inspiration of newness and fresh starts. The spirit medicine of Eagle dwells here with the ability to see far and wide. I call upon the guardians of the East. Welcome Spirit-Keepers of the East.

(Scent: Chaparral and Sierra Botanical Liquid Perfume)

THE SOUTH

We call in the Spirit-Keepers of the South, elemental FIRE, home of our beating
heart, ruled by the SUN and the color yellow…The heart and the constant rhythm within, the place of our passion, warmth, and direct knowing. Home of the Child, youthful abundant energy, and motivation. The spirit medicine of Lion dwells here with courage. I call upon the guardians of the South. Welcome Spirit-Keepers of the South.

(Scent: Cimbalom Botanical Solid Perfume, Aurora Solid & Liquid Botanical Perfume)

THE WEST

We call upon the Spirit-Keepers of the West, elemental WATER, home of our intuition and the dream time, ruled by the MOON and the color white…The belly, the place of emotion, desires and the ability to circulate. Home of the Feminine, the Mother and flow. The spirit medicine of Dolphin dwells here, in keen inner awareness, flowing in harmony. I call upon the guardians of the West. Welcome Spirit-Keepers of the West.

(Scent: Lyra Botanical Liquid Perfume)

THE NORTH

We call upon the Spirit-Keepers of the North, elemental EARTH, home of our connection to the here & now, ruled by the EARTH and the color black…The base chakra, the place of manifestation, control & restraint and grounded in experience. Home of the Male, strength and ability to create magic. The spirit medicine of Snake dwells here with the ability to move swiftly, above and below the ground, to shed what no longer serves and be born anew. I call upon the guardians of the North. Welcome Spirit-Keepers of the North.

(Scent: Terrestre and Sierra Botanical Solid Perfume)

THE CENTER

We call on the Center, the Womb of all Creation, the Void, the Black Hole. We call in our own Essence, feeling into our cores, feeling the part of the universe that is only and totally filled with us, connecting to the energies of our own uniqueness, our special medicine, our song, our gifts. Uniting with our own authentic essential nature and the ability to touch others with the unique beauty of this expression. When we are filled with our own personal energetic energies, we walk on, taking within us the four directions and the fulfillment of all that we are. Welcome Spirit-Keepers of the Center.

(Scent: Q Liquid Botanical Perfume)

My deepest gratitude to my facilitator Kaitryne and to Gary Stamper of the blog "Beyond Integral" who had already typed out the basic "Calling of the Four Directions" which I utilized in this post as well as borrowed some of his beauty filled ideas and words.