Monday, April 22, 2019

LILACS!



Last year when the lilacs began their flowering season here in Santa Fe, I wasn't quite ready for them since the bulk of the necessary lab equipment and supplies were still sitting in a POD out in Albuquerque.




This year however, I am not only prepared with my lovely new space, equipment, tools, etc., but I have been monitoring several bushes around town and I also have a tribe of friends on the look out for me as well.




Although I have not yet worked with this beauty, which I believe is the Syringa vulgaris, I've been hearing many natural perfumers on the East coast rave about their results with capturing her fragrance via the enfleurage process.




Having been monitoring a few shrubs in the area, (photo above) I knew that the bloom cycle was about to happen at any moment. Thus, I headed to the local thrift store for glass pyrex and prepared them over the weekend. Then today, I received a text from a friend who drives a FedEx truck in the neighborhood alerting me to a spot where I could find some flowering.



By observing the flower heads I can see that its a bit early in the cycle, but I decided to pick a few bunches anyway since I'm studying and getting to know her a bit. In fact, this evening I will be sleeping with a small bouquet next to me, perhaps int he dreamtime she will impart a message or two.


Below are two photos of the first enfleurage bed with fresh lilacs, it looks like I'm baking a lilac pie, doesn't it? I'll be posting more about this process in the student forum for Art of Botanical Perfume online course.




Photos ©RoxanaVilla

A Perfumed Bestiary


Introducing a new series of fragrances that stitch together many of my favorite themes such as illuminated manuscripts, the cabinet of curiosity, magic, mythology, the environment, nature, animals, etc. And what better time to debut a project of this grandeur about our fellow inhabitants of this lovely blue planet than today Earth Day, April 22, 2019!


A Perfumed Bestiary: An Artful, Modern Day Grimoire

Beginning with the letter "A" we will begin our fragrant journey into the realm of the imagined, and as with Caspar Henderson's 21st Century Bestiary, "barely imagined" beings. From the fantastical to the almost extinct, together we will traverse mystical legends along with some other furry, feathery and scaly inhabitants of our blue planet.

Each month a new plant fragrance will be sent to participants, the perfume will only be available to subscribers and perhaps down the road to those receiving our newsletter. The fragrance will be offered as a solid perfume for the month it is debuted. If the perfume is worthy of inclusion in our line then it will be added in the near future.

If you have any beasts/animals that you would like to see included in the series please send us a note and we will most definitely consider the request.


Choose Your Subscription


Each month you will receive a small amount of perfume inspired by a specific
imagined or barely imagined being from the animal kingdom.

The first fragrance (A) will be shipped in May 2019
The second fragrance (B) will be shipped in June 2019
The third fragrance (C) will be shipped in July 2019, etc.



The Her Story of this Project

I've been contemplating offering a monthly membership with my perfume line since 2012. Although I thought it was a great idea, the timing didn't work out. Then two things happened, I watched Amazon series the ABC Murders' with John Malkovich followed by a walk in the Sangre de Christos Mountains.


As I was walking up a path a seedling of a concept began to take form, when suddenly I was beckoned by a Walkingstick Cholla (Cylindropuntia imbricata) cactus who chimed in with some inspiration. Interestingly enough, it's the Junipers and Pinon trees I usually connect with, but that day is was the Cholla. Through a series of images provided by the cactus the idea of a monthly perfume membership series beginning with the letter A in reference to a plant like Artemisia came through.


Then, like the segmenting joints of the Chollas, the alphabetical idea took on a new shape when I read an article titled The Extremely Real Science Behind the Basilisk's Lethal Gaze. I thought to myself what about an alphabetical series that combined a letter for a plant and an imaginary animal like a Basilisk!! Now I was excited, this sounded much more interesting given that I have a love affair with Medieval Illuminated Manuscripts such as the Ashmole Bestiary at the infamous Bodleian Library at Oxford.


However, I must say, after reading some of the text of ancient Bestiaries I am rather appalled at their observations, but you be the judge, here is the text that went with a honey bee image:

"Bees are the smallest of birds. They are born from the bodies of oxen, or from the decaying flesh of slaughtered calves; worms form in the flesh and then turn into bees. Bees live in community, choose the most noble among them as king, have wars, and make honey. Their laws are based on custom, but the king does not enforce the law; rather the lawbreakers punish themselves by stinging themselves to death. Bees are afraid of smoke and are excited by noise. Each has its own duty: guarding the food supply, watching for rain, collecting dew to make honey, and making wax from flowers."



Medieval illuminations, like the one above from the Aberdeen Bestiary, contained a moral to go along with the illustration, such as this one about the Perindens Tree.

"The doves are the faithful Christians, who are safe from the devil as long as they remain in the church. Christ is the right side of the tree, the holy spirit the left side. The devil is afraid of the church and will not come near, but the Christian who leaves the church should beware." 
The Aberdeen Bestiary has a slightly different interpretation: "Take the tree as God, the shadow as his son... Take the fruit to be the wisdom of God, that is, the Holy Spirit." The rest of the allegory is basically the same as usual.
Truly archaic!


‘Animals were the first thing that human beings drew. Not plants. Not landscapes. Not even themselves. But animals.’ - David Attenborough


Getting back to the evolution of A Perfumed Bestiary and how it finally coalesced...now that the idea had taken on the form of an A-Z Fantastical Bestiary of sorts I went looking on our bookshelf for the Book of Imaginary Beings by Jorge Luis Borges. In 1957 the first edition of the book was published under the title Manual de ZoologĂ­a Fantástica. Ten years later, the title changed and the content was updated, at the time I was five years old. Although Borges and I are from Buenos Aires, Argentina, I wouldn't be introduced to his work for many years later. 


Regrettably I could not find it on our shelf, I did however have loads of books on illuminated manuscripts, cabinet of curiosities from the 16th & 17th centuries and cabinet of wonders. My next step was venturing to the downtown library here in Santa Fe to see what else I could find. To my delight, I came home with a stack of inspiration, and here I am, sharing this story with you. What makes my version of a Bestiary "Modern" is that I will be focusing on animals that are "barely imagined", meaning they are slowly becoming extinct due to the blunders of humans.


The word “Illuminated” in my brand is a reference to illuminated manuscripts as well as illuminating the way of plant perfume and facilitating higher consciousness. As many of you have witnessed at shows such as the San Francisco Artisan Fragrance Salon in 2012 and my brick and mortar spaces, there is an old world, Cabinet of Wonders meets apothecary vibe.


This new series reflects those aesthetics and virtues of the plant Queendom along with shedding some light on the extraordinary and fantastical.

Year One

Sunday, April 21, 2019

The Goddess Eostre


A very happy and splendid day to each of you. Spring is a trickster having many different days where she officially begins, whether we call it the Spring Equinox, Eostre or Easter or we don't name the yearly occurrence and instead observe a shift in the weather, plants or behaviors of animals, such as the ground hog.

Whatever name we choose for the Season, we welcome her with open arms as we transition from a cold dreary winter to a landscape filled with vivid colors, scent of flowers and birdsong. The transformation takes place on both an exterior and interior level as we defrost and emerge from a dark cocoon of reflection. Renewed by a period of deep reflection, we birth ourselves anew to the brightness and warmth of the extended sunlight.

"Eostre is generally said to be an Anglo-Saxon Goddess associated with the renewal of life: Spring (season), fertility and the hare (for its quick and numerous reproduction). Eostre has been made to be a "goddess of Dawn" by modern writers, improvising on the theme of Eos; there is no sanction for this aspect in any historical document or ancient tradition. Though it has been said that she was sometimes depicted with a hares head, no authentic animal-headed deities appear in Germanic or Celtic cult objects. And, perhaps for good reason, there is no Celtic depiction of an Eostre whatsoever. Most likely the name of the Spring Goddess was lost and the name "Eastre" was substituted in the transcriptions of the 8th century. Other names given to her include Ostare, Ostara, Ostern, Estre, Eostre, Eoster, Eostra, Eostur, Eastra, Eastur, Austron, and Ausos."
- edited from Wikipedia

I tend to like to explore words and associated mythologies that humans have chosen to attribute to different days, festivals, etc. Any of you who are regular readers of this journal or my work have most likely already sensed my exploratory nature in those realms. And, again, you may have already noticed, I have an affinity with the roots of things and more ancestral & pagan traditions when humans lived in harmony with nature.

A re-occurring theme that author Leonard Schlain writes about in his book The Alphabet and the Goddess is the patriarchal trend on usurping a female deity with a masculine one. For example the attributes of the ancient Goddess Eostra have clearly influenced traditions, such as Christianity who adopted the Springtime symbols to denote the Easter Resurrection of Christ.

Symbols, the Pink Moon and the Tree Ogham of Willow

Attributes associated with this Eostre, Spring, and Easter are:

Colors: White, green, pastels
Symbols: Rabbit, egg
Suitable offerings: hard-boiled eggs, honey cakes, first fruits of the season
Associated Planet: Moon

Along with Eostre we had a glorious full moon a few nights prior in the astrological sign of Libra, called The Pink Moon. The name is in reference to the herb moss pink, or wild ground phlox, which is one of the earliest widespread flowers of the spring season.

Beginning April 15th we entered the Tree Ogham phase of the Willow, botanical family is the Salix. According to the modern neopagan Ogham calendar, it is the fifth month of the cycle falling between April 15th through May 12th. The Willow, termed Saille in this system of Tree Lore, is associated with flexibility and patience with an emphasis on femininity.

Like me, you may find yourself interested in ceremony and ritual, if so then I suggest venturing off to find a grove of Willow in your area and ask for a wish to be granted. We begin this little ritual by tuning into the imprint and hive mind of the willow spirit and the individual tree, asking for permission and sharing your desire.

If permission is granted, select a pliable shoot and tie a loose knot in it while holding the desired outcome in your mind and heart. When your wish has been granted, return to the site and untie the knot while remaining in a state of gratitude and love. In some traditions a gift is left for the Willow, such as tobacco. I suggest asking the willow what gift it would like from the start, as I have noticed the trees are more interested in an intentional gift like LOVE rather than a physical endowment.


Here in New Mexico we have the red willow, Salix laevigata, also called the polished willow, which grows in abundance near sources of water. The plant is currently threatened by invasives such as Tamarisk trees, which are equally thirsty and difficult to eradicate. The ancestral roots of this tree are related to basket weaving by the native people. In Santa Fe we find a plethora of red willows in Dale Ball Trails in Upper Canyon. The photo below is in Fall when the red willows turn red.

"The Tiwa (or Tano) are a linguistic group of Pueblo American Indians who speak the Tiwa language and share the Pueblo culture. Tiwa (also known as Tano) is one of five Tanoan languages spoken by the Pueblo people of New Mexico. The name Taos is derived from the Tiwa word for “place of red willows.” The red willow is a variety known for its reddish or purple twigs and bark rich in tannin. It is also known as the basket willow, having pliable twigs used in basketry and furniture."
- NMHistoricPreservation.org


SPRING "Illuminated" Perfumes

Floral perfumes are the most aligned with the energetics of Eostre, Spring, and Easter but fragrances in the green family also work nicely. From our illuminated line I suggest either Vera (fresh, herbal, fougere), Hedera helix (Deep, rich forest green) or one of the many fresher florals such as Lyra, Fleurish and Aurora, find them all in their varied formats as well as sample sets here.



The EGG

Of all the different symbols associated with Spring, the one that has me most inspired today is the egg. The origins of the word Easter are found in the ancient Saxon Lunar Goddess known as Eostre and Norse Goddess Ostara. In both these traditions, as well as those of the Greeks and Egyptians we find the symbolic use of the egg and a theory of the Cosmic Egg as the source of all creation.


In contemplating the symbol of  the “egg” as a popular thematic image in our modern Spring rituals and archetypes there is the world egg in Vedic mythology related to an egg shaped Universe, but most interesting to me is the Upanishads where the universe divides into two halves, which alludes to the duality principal in Alchemy as well as the Ouroboros, symbolizing the unity of all things through the eternal process of change.

In August of 2003 when Greg and I attended the Visionary Art workshop titled Old Masters, New Visions in Austria, I learned a deeper meaning to the symbolism of the egg, specifically in reference to the Mishe technique where we use the whole egg for this painting procedure that has its roots with the Flemish brother painters Jan and Hubert van Eyck.

By utilizing a whole egg in combination with a specific layering of different colored glazes light is able to pass through the painting to produce a glass like appearance, resulting in fantastical depth to a two dimensional painted image. Go to a museum which has a Van Eyck painting in their collection and you will experience what I am typing about. Assuming of course, that the painting is the original, and not a reproduction.

Opening photograph: Mia from Alice of the WonderLand, Dale Ball Trail, Hedera helix collage and Eggs in Next photos ©RoxanaVilla, The Orphic Egg on parchment, original by Jacob Bryant, 1774
References: Desert Wild Flower
Copy ©RoxanaVilla